If you're looking to make your money work for you when buying a used car then buying an ex-police car could be the route for you to grab a great car at a bargain price.
In general police cars tend to be in good condition, certainly mechanically as they have to be roadworthy and run without any problems. You should find that the paperwork, log book etc will be in order. The bodywork and interior may have holes etc from equipment but most of these can be repaired easily and for little cost. If possible look for ex-police cars that come from country areas and not cities as these will have had an easier life in general.
If you're going to view an ex-police car try and take a mechanic or a friend who has some auto knowledge with you to help give your potential next car the once over. Don't let your heart rule your head by picking an ex-police car for its color or wheels etc, a mechanically sound car should be the first priority.
If you're buying online make contact with the seller and be prepared with several questions about the cars history remembering to ask about any accident damage, service history, damage left by equipment etc. Also as stated before question the cars police service history - what area did the ex-police car operate in?
Where possible try and stretch your budget to buy the best possible ex-police car that is available and be prepared to haggle on the price with the seller.
Possibly one of the most popular ex-police cars bought is the Ford Crown Victoria, a versatile and tough car they have the engine calibrated for a higher engine idle and have uprated suspension fitted also amongst other modifications dependent on model year.
The video shows a good example of a clean ex-police Ford Crown Victoria.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YKiZSYXv_F4
For a fantastic range of Ex -Police Ford Crown Victoria's for sale and other models online please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Crown-Victoria
Sunday 15 February 2009
Saturday 7 February 2009
Motorsport News
Formula 1 News
This week in motorsport has seen the Formula 1 drivers show their disgust at the increase in the amount they pay for the licence that allows them to race. It would appear the multi millionaire drivers are not happy about the £8700 ($12,100) licence fee that allows them to earn huge sums on the track.
Given the current economic climate I don’t think they will find too many shoulders to cry on over their reluctance to pay a small proportion of their huge earnings to the FIA. Given the current economic climate I don’t think they will find too many shoulders to cry on over their reluctance to pay a small proportion of their huge earnings to the FIA.
Credit Crunch Impact on Motorsport
Following the withdrawal from F1 of the Honda team the news this week of another car manufacturer pulling out of world motorsport has hit the headlines. Mitsubishi have decided to no longer compete in the Dakar rally due to the financial pressures on the manufacturer in the current economic climate.
Indy Car
Indy Car fans can bid for a slot on the starting grid of the 33rd Annual Toyota Pro-Celebrity Race. The event forms part of the 35th Anniversary Toyota Grand Prix of Long Beach held April 16-19.
Bidding starts at $25,000 and ends on February 11 at 5 p.m. (PT). All proceeds will go to the Grand Prix Foundation of Long Beach, a charity that has raised over $2 million to several charitable organizations in the Long Beach Area. The winning bidder will receive a custom made drivers suit and join the rest of the celebrity field for four days of professional driver training. Also Toyota will make a $5000 donation in the winning bidders name to Racing for Kids.
This week in motorsport has seen the Formula 1 drivers show their disgust at the increase in the amount they pay for the licence that allows them to race. It would appear the multi millionaire drivers are not happy about the £8700 ($12,100) licence fee that allows them to earn huge sums on the track.
Given the current economic climate I don’t think they will find too many shoulders to cry on over their reluctance to pay a small proportion of their huge earnings to the FIA. Given the current economic climate I don’t think they will find too many shoulders to cry on over their reluctance to pay a small proportion of their huge earnings to the FIA.
Credit Crunch Impact on Motorsport
Following the withdrawal from F1 of the Honda team the news this week of another car manufacturer pulling out of world motorsport has hit the headlines. Mitsubishi have decided to no longer compete in the Dakar rally due to the financial pressures on the manufacturer in the current economic climate.
Indy Car
Indy Car fans can bid for a slot on the starting grid of the 33rd Annual Toyota Pro-Celebrity Race. The event forms part of the 35th Anniversary Toyota Grand Prix of Long Beach held April 16-19.
Bidding starts at $25,000 and ends on February 11 at 5 p.m. (PT). All proceeds will go to the Grand Prix Foundation of Long Beach, a charity that has raised over $2 million to several charitable organizations in the Long Beach Area. The winning bidder will receive a custom made drivers suit and join the rest of the celebrity field for four days of professional driver training. Also Toyota will make a $5000 donation in the winning bidders name to Racing for Kids.
Tuesday 27 January 2009
Rare Classic Bugatti Find
Early January saw the discovery of an extremely rare classic car found in the UK. The family of Dr Harold Carr (apt name really!) inherited a lock up from their Uncle and prior to opening its doors they had no idea what was waiting for them.
The lock up contained a collection of classic cars including a Jaguar E-Type and an Aston Martin. However the car that could prove to be a life changing inheritance was a Bugatti Type 57s Atalante built in 1937. The car was one of only 17 built and could make millions at auction next month at the Retro-mobile show in Paris next month.
This particular car was delivered to Earl Howe on May 5, 1937. Earl Howe was the first president of the British racing Drivers’ Club and a winner of the 34 hour Le Mans. He held onto the car for eight years when it then changed hands a couple of times before Dr Carr purchased the car in 1955.
The car is in exceptional original condition with only 26,284 miles on the clock over 72 years! The Bugatti 57s is one of the classic cars for collectors with four of the seventeen models in the Musee National de l’Automobile with the rest in private collections.
If bidding reaches estimates, it is in the running to become the most expensive car sold at auction, matching the $8.7 million for a 1931 Bugatti Royale Kellner Coupe sold in 1987.
If you’re looking for a classic car at a more reasonable price then why not visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Store/Cars-and-Trucks, where you will find one of the largest online market places for classic and used cars.
The lock up contained a collection of classic cars including a Jaguar E-Type and an Aston Martin. However the car that could prove to be a life changing inheritance was a Bugatti Type 57s Atalante built in 1937. The car was one of only 17 built and could make millions at auction next month at the Retro-mobile show in Paris next month.
This particular car was delivered to Earl Howe on May 5, 1937. Earl Howe was the first president of the British racing Drivers’ Club and a winner of the 34 hour Le Mans. He held onto the car for eight years when it then changed hands a couple of times before Dr Carr purchased the car in 1955.
The car is in exceptional original condition with only 26,284 miles on the clock over 72 years! The Bugatti 57s is one of the classic cars for collectors with four of the seventeen models in the Musee National de l’Automobile with the rest in private collections.
If bidding reaches estimates, it is in the running to become the most expensive car sold at auction, matching the $8.7 million for a 1931 Bugatti Royale Kellner Coupe sold in 1987.
If you’re looking for a classic car at a more reasonable price then why not visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Store/Cars-and-Trucks, where you will find one of the largest online market places for classic and used cars.
Monday 12 January 2009
Buying a Used Grand Cherokee
In 1993, Jeep launched the fine-looking Grand Cherokee in response to the success of rivals Ford and their Explorer model. The Grand Cherokee saw Jeep produce a vehicle with their legendary off-road capability but with an improved highway ride and larger interior than the Cherokee.
Initially three models were offered: base model, Laredo and Limited. Jeep stole a march on competitors in the market place with the inclusion of driver's side airbag and all round anti-lock brakes. Notable standard features included full instrument set, cloth interior and 5 speed manual transmission. In addition to this the Laredo came with body cladding, powered mirrors and cruise control. The Limited came with leather seats, Air Con, upgraded stereo system, 4 speed auto transmission and a host of powered parts.
The construction and design of the Grand Cherokee led to a 105.9 inch wheelbase, 4.5 inches longer than the Cherokee leading to more legroom for rear passengers, also the Grand Cherokee was only available as a four door model.
The engine for the Grand Cherokee was the Jeep 190 BHP, six cylinders 4.0 liter and towards the end of 1993 a 5.2 liter V8 with 220 BHP was launched. This larger engine gave a great advantage over the Grand Cherokee competitors and also allowed for a towing capability of some 6,500 pounds.
In 1994 the Grand Cherokee saw refinements made including all round disc brakes on the Limited, rear seats gained headrests, power sunroof and upgraded stereo system. The base model was renamed "SE" and side impact beams were fitted in the doors improving crash protection.
For 1995 Jeep introduced the "Orvis" edition Grand Cherokee in response to Ford's Eddie Bauer (both Orvis and Bauer are outdoor clothing and equipment manufacturers). The color scheme for this was green paint, red and gold accents and two tone green & champagne interior. Other improvements were increased torque output from 285 - 300 pounds for the V8 engine and deeper tints to side and rear windows. Two new optional extras were available with a flip up tailgate window and integrated child safety seat. Also a two wheel drive version of the limited with six cylinder engine only was launched.
Significant changes were made to the Grand Cherokee for 1996. Changes were made to the four wheel drive systems, power steering on the Limited models included variable assist (helping with parking and steering at low speed) and service points were highlighted under the engine hood. Changes to the exterior included larger grille, new bumpers, restyled body cladding and new wheels on the Laredo and Limited models. The interior saw dual airbags in the instrument panel and steering wheel, adjustable shoulder belts and optional heated front seats on the Limited models. The limited models also saw steering mounted stereo controls, driver memory system for two drivers, auto dim for side and rear view mirrors, new style seat fabric and CD decks for the stereo system.
1997 saw little in the way of modifications with the availability of the V8 for the two wheel drive model and the six cylinders qualifying for the Californian transitional low emissions vehicle certificate. The anti-lock brake system was improved, the stereo was upgraded, the quality of the carpets improved and new colors were launched including Bright Platinum. Towards the end of the year the sporty Tsi model was launched with 16 inch alloy wheels, leather interior and a top quality stereo.
The final year of production for the first generation of Grand Cherokee saw the new 5.9 liter engine Limited launched with a huge 245 BHP and 345 foot - pounds of torque giving 0-60 seconds of 7.3 seconds. Improvements for the rest of the range included improved steering, an under hood light and improved ignition key lock security. The Orvis model ceased production in this year.
If you're looking to buy a Grand Cherokee then for the largest selection of used vehicles available for sale today please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Jeep/Grand-Cherokee
Initially three models were offered: base model, Laredo and Limited. Jeep stole a march on competitors in the market place with the inclusion of driver's side airbag and all round anti-lock brakes. Notable standard features included full instrument set, cloth interior and 5 speed manual transmission. In addition to this the Laredo came with body cladding, powered mirrors and cruise control. The Limited came with leather seats, Air Con, upgraded stereo system, 4 speed auto transmission and a host of powered parts.
The construction and design of the Grand Cherokee led to a 105.9 inch wheelbase, 4.5 inches longer than the Cherokee leading to more legroom for rear passengers, also the Grand Cherokee was only available as a four door model.
The engine for the Grand Cherokee was the Jeep 190 BHP, six cylinders 4.0 liter and towards the end of 1993 a 5.2 liter V8 with 220 BHP was launched. This larger engine gave a great advantage over the Grand Cherokee competitors and also allowed for a towing capability of some 6,500 pounds.
In 1994 the Grand Cherokee saw refinements made including all round disc brakes on the Limited, rear seats gained headrests, power sunroof and upgraded stereo system. The base model was renamed "SE" and side impact beams were fitted in the doors improving crash protection.
For 1995 Jeep introduced the "Orvis" edition Grand Cherokee in response to Ford's Eddie Bauer (both Orvis and Bauer are outdoor clothing and equipment manufacturers). The color scheme for this was green paint, red and gold accents and two tone green & champagne interior. Other improvements were increased torque output from 285 - 300 pounds for the V8 engine and deeper tints to side and rear windows. Two new optional extras were available with a flip up tailgate window and integrated child safety seat. Also a two wheel drive version of the limited with six cylinder engine only was launched.
Significant changes were made to the Grand Cherokee for 1996. Changes were made to the four wheel drive systems, power steering on the Limited models included variable assist (helping with parking and steering at low speed) and service points were highlighted under the engine hood. Changes to the exterior included larger grille, new bumpers, restyled body cladding and new wheels on the Laredo and Limited models. The interior saw dual airbags in the instrument panel and steering wheel, adjustable shoulder belts and optional heated front seats on the Limited models. The limited models also saw steering mounted stereo controls, driver memory system for two drivers, auto dim for side and rear view mirrors, new style seat fabric and CD decks for the stereo system.
1997 saw little in the way of modifications with the availability of the V8 for the two wheel drive model and the six cylinders qualifying for the Californian transitional low emissions vehicle certificate. The anti-lock brake system was improved, the stereo was upgraded, the quality of the carpets improved and new colors were launched including Bright Platinum. Towards the end of the year the sporty Tsi model was launched with 16 inch alloy wheels, leather interior and a top quality stereo.
The final year of production for the first generation of Grand Cherokee saw the new 5.9 liter engine Limited launched with a huge 245 BHP and 345 foot - pounds of torque giving 0-60 seconds of 7.3 seconds. Improvements for the rest of the range included improved steering, an under hood light and improved ignition key lock security. The Orvis model ceased production in this year.
If you're looking to buy a Grand Cherokee then for the largest selection of used vehicles available for sale today please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Jeep/Grand-Cherokee
Monday 5 January 2009
The Classic British Mini - A Brief History
The Classic British Mini was the first car in Great Britain that could be correctly termed as "mass produced" and its aim was to mobilise the working population. Growing demand for bubble cars such as the Messerschmitt, the rising cost of fuel and the British Government required a response. The Germans had the Beetle, the French had the 2CV, the Italians had the Topolino - the British were getting the Mini!
Produced and launched in 1959 in the UK the first minis were Austin and Morris badged and were eventually assembled across the globe in Europe, Canada, Africa, South America and Australia.
The legendary designer Alec Issignonis was the man behind the Classic British Mini and designed a great little four seat saloon with a front-drive engine with an integral gearbox in the sump. Featuring a monocoque steel body shell held together chiefly by spot-welds the car had separate mounted sub-frames with the front and rear drive-train components. For a small car the interior was fairly spacious as the engine and standard 3.5x10 steel wheels took up very little room.
A major factor in the Classic British Mini becoming the must have car for the stars of the 1960's was John Cooper. From 1961 John Cooper convinced BMC to produce fast Minis bearing his name and the lightweight car produced some giant-killing performances in racing and rallying. The Classic British Mini developed a popular 'scene' and its patrons included the royal family, film stars from around the world and many people who had never owned a new car previously.
The first Mini Clubs were based on motorsport and the oldest dates back to 1966. Many Mini clubs have started since the early days and they are mainly a social scene for their members and there are hundreds of clubs across the globe. The Classic British Mini saw the launch of a massive maintenance and tuning industry as a response to owners needs to keep their cars on the road for the cheapest price possible.
The largest Mini shows are found in the UK and most of them are organised by Mini clubs. Every year the major N American Mini events are Mini Meet East and Mini Meet West. The European International Mini Meeting happens in a different country every year and comes to England every fifth year.
The Classic British Mini still has an important motorsport scene including drag racing, auto-grass and rallying.
If you are looking to buy a Classic British Mini then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Mini/Classic-Mini
Produced and launched in 1959 in the UK the first minis were Austin and Morris badged and were eventually assembled across the globe in Europe, Canada, Africa, South America and Australia.
The legendary designer Alec Issignonis was the man behind the Classic British Mini and designed a great little four seat saloon with a front-drive engine with an integral gearbox in the sump. Featuring a monocoque steel body shell held together chiefly by spot-welds the car had separate mounted sub-frames with the front and rear drive-train components. For a small car the interior was fairly spacious as the engine and standard 3.5x10 steel wheels took up very little room.
A major factor in the Classic British Mini becoming the must have car for the stars of the 1960's was John Cooper. From 1961 John Cooper convinced BMC to produce fast Minis bearing his name and the lightweight car produced some giant-killing performances in racing and rallying. The Classic British Mini developed a popular 'scene' and its patrons included the royal family, film stars from around the world and many people who had never owned a new car previously.
The first Mini Clubs were based on motorsport and the oldest dates back to 1966. Many Mini clubs have started since the early days and they are mainly a social scene for their members and there are hundreds of clubs across the globe. The Classic British Mini saw the launch of a massive maintenance and tuning industry as a response to owners needs to keep their cars on the road for the cheapest price possible.
The largest Mini shows are found in the UK and most of them are organised by Mini clubs. Every year the major N American Mini events are Mini Meet East and Mini Meet West. The European International Mini Meeting happens in a different country every year and comes to England every fifth year.
The Classic British Mini still has an important motorsport scene including drag racing, auto-grass and rallying.
If you are looking to buy a Classic British Mini then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Mini/Classic-Mini
Sunday 21 December 2008
Ford Model T - Buyers Guide
Developed by Henry Ford the Model T entered production in 1908 and 2008 marks the 100th anniversary of the first mass-produced car to be made on a production line. Ford aimed to develop a car affordable to the masses and through this goal the Model T changed the world and turned America into an industrial economy and mobile society. Buying a Ford Model T in 1908 cost half the price of its rivals and would help drive the change from horse to automobile. The Model T was produced until 1927 by which time more than 15 million models had been sold.
The Car
Early Ford Model T's had no doors, the windscreen was braced with leather straps and the styling was typically formal and upright as is usual with cars of this era. There were changes made, the 1915 model for example has a single passenger side door but the driver's side was covered by the spare wheel where the door would be. Also the back seat is set over the rear axle, allowing for plenty of leg room but no allowance made for carrying luggage.
What will your Money buy you
With a some sixteen million made there are plenty to choose from when Buying a Ford Model T. Prices today depend on the condition of the car and you can expect to pay around $5000 for a project car and over $10,000 for a car in good running order. Specialist companies can supply most if not all parts that maybe required for any restoration or small service that maybe required. In 1910 a Model T cost £220 and by 1919 the price had reduced to £170.It's important to remember that you're buying a car with very little in the way of accessories with four wheels, a steering wheel, an engine, basic electrics and weather protection. Hard to believe however that leather seats and wood trim came as standard. In 1915 if you were lucky enough to have a car the basic equipment the Ford Model T came with was a luxury!
Driving Experience
If you're planning on buying a Ford Model T then forget everything you've learned about driving. The controls look standard with three pedals, a handbrake and the steering column has two stalks. Despite the apparently normal set up, about the only thing that is vaguely normal is the brake pedal on the right. The other two pedals control the two-speed and reverse transmission. The middle pedal selects reverse gear while the left pedal - in conjunction with the handbrake-like lever - selects neutral, low or high gear. The left hand stalk on the steering column is the throttle with no return spring and the right-hand control manages the ignition timing. The hand lever has three positions: fully back the transmission is in neutral and the rear wheel brakes are on. In the middle position the brakes are off and the transmission is in neutral. The forward position gives a choice of low or high gear - press down on the left pedal for low gear, release it for top gear.
The Ford Model T travels along at about 20-30mph. It is strange experience at first as you are driving with your feet off the pedals. At these speeds the upright windscreen keeps the wind off and the exhaust acts as a heater for the drivers feet in winter conditions.
Worth Noting
When buying a Ford Model T it is worth remembering that it was designed and built for a massively different driving experience. The roads back then were dirt tracks at best, there was much less traffic on the roads, driving was an entirely new skill and motor mechanics were thin on the ground. The brakes were designed for stopping you at your destination, you needed plenty of ground clearance and your local blacksmith was your local mechanic. Given these details you must be careful when taking a journey as driving a Ford Model T in modern traffic is a challenge and it won't dodge and weave through traffic like a modern car. The high driving position offers a good view and if you do hit anything the Model T is pretty solid.
In Summary
Owning a Ford Model T should give years of satisfaction as a hobby and few cars can match this experience considering the age of the vehicle.
If you're looking o buy a Ford Model T then please visit the following website, the selection here is fantastic! http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Model-T
The Car
Early Ford Model T's had no doors, the windscreen was braced with leather straps and the styling was typically formal and upright as is usual with cars of this era. There were changes made, the 1915 model for example has a single passenger side door but the driver's side was covered by the spare wheel where the door would be. Also the back seat is set over the rear axle, allowing for plenty of leg room but no allowance made for carrying luggage.
What will your Money buy you
With a some sixteen million made there are plenty to choose from when Buying a Ford Model T. Prices today depend on the condition of the car and you can expect to pay around $5000 for a project car and over $10,000 for a car in good running order. Specialist companies can supply most if not all parts that maybe required for any restoration or small service that maybe required. In 1910 a Model T cost £220 and by 1919 the price had reduced to £170.It's important to remember that you're buying a car with very little in the way of accessories with four wheels, a steering wheel, an engine, basic electrics and weather protection. Hard to believe however that leather seats and wood trim came as standard. In 1915 if you were lucky enough to have a car the basic equipment the Ford Model T came with was a luxury!
Driving Experience
If you're planning on buying a Ford Model T then forget everything you've learned about driving. The controls look standard with three pedals, a handbrake and the steering column has two stalks. Despite the apparently normal set up, about the only thing that is vaguely normal is the brake pedal on the right. The other two pedals control the two-speed and reverse transmission. The middle pedal selects reverse gear while the left pedal - in conjunction with the handbrake-like lever - selects neutral, low or high gear. The left hand stalk on the steering column is the throttle with no return spring and the right-hand control manages the ignition timing. The hand lever has three positions: fully back the transmission is in neutral and the rear wheel brakes are on. In the middle position the brakes are off and the transmission is in neutral. The forward position gives a choice of low or high gear - press down on the left pedal for low gear, release it for top gear.
The Ford Model T travels along at about 20-30mph. It is strange experience at first as you are driving with your feet off the pedals. At these speeds the upright windscreen keeps the wind off and the exhaust acts as a heater for the drivers feet in winter conditions.
Worth Noting
When buying a Ford Model T it is worth remembering that it was designed and built for a massively different driving experience. The roads back then were dirt tracks at best, there was much less traffic on the roads, driving was an entirely new skill and motor mechanics were thin on the ground. The brakes were designed for stopping you at your destination, you needed plenty of ground clearance and your local blacksmith was your local mechanic. Given these details you must be careful when taking a journey as driving a Ford Model T in modern traffic is a challenge and it won't dodge and weave through traffic like a modern car. The high driving position offers a good view and if you do hit anything the Model T is pretty solid.
In Summary
Owning a Ford Model T should give years of satisfaction as a hobby and few cars can match this experience considering the age of the vehicle.
If you're looking o buy a Ford Model T then please visit the following website, the selection here is fantastic! http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Model-T
Tuesday 16 December 2008
Engine Swap - Rough Guide
One of the most cost efficient routes to increasing engine power is to swap engines, where possible use an engine from the same make and model as the gearboxes should be from the same range and engine mounts should be easily obtained rather than fabricating custom mounts. Often engines from high powered saloons from a manufacturer will fit the smaller family type car from the same stable.
The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.
Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.
Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?
When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.
If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.
When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.
The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.
If you are looking for an engine to start your engine swap or need further parts to complete your engine swap then please visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/
The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.
Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.
Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?
When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.
If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.
When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.
The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.
If you are looking for an engine to start your engine swap or need further parts to complete your engine swap then please visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/
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