You will have to search hard to find the words cheap and Porsche in the same paragraph or sentence! But when buying a Porsche 944 this can be the case with prices for a well travelled model starting at $3000 and rising to $16,000 for a low mileage late model, you could be driving a well arranged and powerful Porsche 944 for the price of a breakers yard ready 911!
As with the purchase of any older or classic vehicle the usual advice applies to buy the best you can afford with your budget and remember to include ongoing running costs for maintaining an ageing, if modern classic. Be prepared to spend up to $3000 annually on repairs - remember when buying a Porsche 944 these cars were in excess of $70,000 when new and parts can be pricey!
The first model released was the 944 Lux and you should be able to find them with several of the optional extras installed by the original owner due to the savings made in not buying a 911! These included leather trim and air conditioning, as well as alloy wheels, electric windows and mirrors, low profile tyres and headlamp washers that came as standard on the Lux. The engine area had to do overtime on the Lux as it only came with a 164BHP unit and the Porsche 944 is a heavy car.
If you have a need for speed then the Porsche 944 Turbo should fit the bill nicely! Initial models came supplied with 225BHP before evolving to 250BHP as standard making this the ideal car for heading down the highway at warp speed in the 1980's, and still looking the part today. The Porsche 944S and S2 had slightly more grunt and the later model Lux gained a little in the later models with the addition of four valves per cylinder.
When buying a Porsche 944 please check the engine and suspension for a hard driven car. Also look out for crash damage, full service history and worn interiors.
In summary Buying a Porsche 944 was and is an inexpensive entry into Porsche ownership. The purist Porsche owners and fans will always claim it is not a proper Porsche due to its front mounted, water cooled engine but it is rear wheel drive and the transmission is mounted behind and compared to the VW powered 924 it has a Porsche engine. It is also worth bearing in mind that if track days are your passion then most of the 968CS suspension can be grafted onto the 944 making a great car for handling the track!
If you're looking to buy a Porsche 944 then please visit :http://www.americanautobid.com/Porsche/944
Thursday 30 October 2008
Tuesday 21 October 2008
Buying an MG Midget - A Guide
The MG Midget developed from the Austin Healey Sprite MK I launched in May 1958, with the MG Midget MK1 launched in June 1961. The only difference between the MG Midget and its stable mate the MK2 Sprite are its MG badges, additional chrome trim strips, slatted chrome grill and slightly better interior.
What Should I Be Looking For?
Your first consideration when you are buying an MG Midget is the state of the body-work. The size of the MG Midget makes any restoration a hard task due to the tight dimensions. The easily available repair panels at reasonable prices make restorations for the professional and amateur alike a boon, however with this in mind check any potential purchase carefully.
Make sure you check all areas of the car, ensure all panels line up, that gaps between panels are even, no dents or ripples or any creases in the body-work. Look out for any panels or areas of the body-work that have different shades of paint they maybe covering repairs made with filler. A soft top in less than average condition should be noted and the condition of the floor checked for corrosion.
Front Apron & Front Wings
The front valance is often the first casualty in even a minor accident along with stone damage and it is important to check the seam where the front wing joins the apron. Check behind the bumper mounting for signs of accident damage and also check the condition of the bumpers, especially rubber bumpers as they are costly to replace.
The front wings have a tendency to rust along the lower seam where the wing meets the top of the sill panel. The area around the headlamp attracts corrosion and there is also a drain hole at the bottom of the lip on the front wings and if blocked dirt and sludge builds and rots the panel.
Doors and A Post
Make sure that the doors have even gaps all round and are fitted correctly. A tight fitting door that sticks at the top could be the sign of a folding body tub or a tub that has been repaired without support. Check that the door seals are in good order and ensure the window winders are working, it's especially important to check the drain holes in the door bottoms are clear and look for rust along the door bottoms. Check the A post area very carefully for any rust here, any problem here is difficult to repair.
Sills
The sills are the most common area for rust and the only repair is replacement of the panel. To examine a sill lay down along the side of the car and shine a torch along the underside checking for corrosion holes, drainage holes maybe present but not always. Surface rust on a sill may hide severe damage underneath.
Bonnet/Hood
Repair sections are available for the bonnet but some skill is needed to fit, any dents in the bonnet are also difficult to repair and you would probably be better off buying a complete panel.
Rear Wing
The top of the wheel arch inner and outer panels can corrode; the square wheel arch models seem particularly prone to this. The lower rear wing immediately behind the door where it joins the sill is another area liable to rust. Check these areas and rear quarter wing for corrosion or body filler.
Boot/Trunk
Open the boot and examine the spare wheel area for signs of dampness or rust, check the spare wheel and jack are present too. Before closing again check the lip of the boot lid for signs of corrosion.
Floor Pan
Thoroughly check this area by lifting the carpets and checking the floor underneath, the area behind the seats is prone to the buildup of road dirt and salt.
Engine Bay Inspection
Finally, when buying an MG Midget the last area for review is the engine bay. Check the engine for oil leaks in particular around the filter housing and gaskets. Any trace of anti-freeze or rust stains on the engine block could indicate water leaks. Listen to the engine running, check for blowing around manifolds and between the manifold and down pipe. Examine the clutch and brake master cylinder and surrounding paint-work for signs of fluid leaks or spillage. The battery can be found at the back of the engine bay and it should be correctly secured as any spillage from the battery can lead to corrosion of the surrounding body-work.
If you're looking to buy an MG Midget online please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/mg/midget
What Should I Be Looking For?
Your first consideration when you are buying an MG Midget is the state of the body-work. The size of the MG Midget makes any restoration a hard task due to the tight dimensions. The easily available repair panels at reasonable prices make restorations for the professional and amateur alike a boon, however with this in mind check any potential purchase carefully.
Make sure you check all areas of the car, ensure all panels line up, that gaps between panels are even, no dents or ripples or any creases in the body-work. Look out for any panels or areas of the body-work that have different shades of paint they maybe covering repairs made with filler. A soft top in less than average condition should be noted and the condition of the floor checked for corrosion.
Front Apron & Front Wings
The front valance is often the first casualty in even a minor accident along with stone damage and it is important to check the seam where the front wing joins the apron. Check behind the bumper mounting for signs of accident damage and also check the condition of the bumpers, especially rubber bumpers as they are costly to replace.
The front wings have a tendency to rust along the lower seam where the wing meets the top of the sill panel. The area around the headlamp attracts corrosion and there is also a drain hole at the bottom of the lip on the front wings and if blocked dirt and sludge builds and rots the panel.
Doors and A Post
Make sure that the doors have even gaps all round and are fitted correctly. A tight fitting door that sticks at the top could be the sign of a folding body tub or a tub that has been repaired without support. Check that the door seals are in good order and ensure the window winders are working, it's especially important to check the drain holes in the door bottoms are clear and look for rust along the door bottoms. Check the A post area very carefully for any rust here, any problem here is difficult to repair.
Sills
The sills are the most common area for rust and the only repair is replacement of the panel. To examine a sill lay down along the side of the car and shine a torch along the underside checking for corrosion holes, drainage holes maybe present but not always. Surface rust on a sill may hide severe damage underneath.
Bonnet/Hood
Repair sections are available for the bonnet but some skill is needed to fit, any dents in the bonnet are also difficult to repair and you would probably be better off buying a complete panel.
Rear Wing
The top of the wheel arch inner and outer panels can corrode; the square wheel arch models seem particularly prone to this. The lower rear wing immediately behind the door where it joins the sill is another area liable to rust. Check these areas and rear quarter wing for corrosion or body filler.
Boot/Trunk
Open the boot and examine the spare wheel area for signs of dampness or rust, check the spare wheel and jack are present too. Before closing again check the lip of the boot lid for signs of corrosion.
Floor Pan
Thoroughly check this area by lifting the carpets and checking the floor underneath, the area behind the seats is prone to the buildup of road dirt and salt.
Engine Bay Inspection
Finally, when buying an MG Midget the last area for review is the engine bay. Check the engine for oil leaks in particular around the filter housing and gaskets. Any trace of anti-freeze or rust stains on the engine block could indicate water leaks. Listen to the engine running, check for blowing around manifolds and between the manifold and down pipe. Examine the clutch and brake master cylinder and surrounding paint-work for signs of fluid leaks or spillage. The battery can be found at the back of the engine bay and it should be correctly secured as any spillage from the battery can lead to corrosion of the surrounding body-work.
If you're looking to buy an MG Midget online please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/mg/midget
Tuesday 14 October 2008
Credit Crunch Bites Harder In To New Car Sales
The credit crunch is biting even harder on new car sales as US manufacturers have commented on a dramatic drop in customer flow, it is widely expected that the sales figures for October’s seasonally adjusted annual rate (SAAR) will drop below 11 million for the first time since 1983.
There has probably never been a more apt time to buy a used auto if you’re looking to replace your current vehicle. If you are why not visit http://www.americanautobid.com/ and have a look round for some great deals.
There has probably never been a more apt time to buy a used auto if you’re looking to replace your current vehicle. If you are why not visit http://www.americanautobid.com/ and have a look round for some great deals.
Saturday 11 October 2008
Uk National Custom & Sports Car Show - Winter Warmer
Next weekend sees the National Custom & Sports Car Show Winter Warmer, 18th - 19th October. The venue is the Doncaster Racecourse, Leger Way, Doncaster the show promises to do what it says on the tin and get you warmed up & inspired for that winter project your planning. Prices are £15 for an adult, £10 Senior Citizen, £5 child aged 5 - 15 and £35 for a Family Ticket (2 adults & 2 children). With a huge main arena packed with entertainment and some of the best show cars in Europe it’s an event guaranteed to deliver and not to be missed! You can visit club displays, latest suppliers and accessories displays and an autojumble - just the place to stock up on cheap parts for your winter project! If you can't make it then why not visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/ for cheap car parts.
Tuesday 7 October 2008
VW Thing - Model Variants
Originally built for the German Federal Army (Bundeswehr) as a stop gap the VW Thing is available in four variants as detailed below:
TYPE 181
This is the Official Volkswagen factory designation for the left hand drive VW Thing. Originally built for the German Federal Army (Bundeswehr) as a designated multi-purpose vehicle. In the German market it is known as the Kubel or Kubelwagen, the same as its predecessor from World War 2.
THING
In 1973 and 1974 28,930 units of the VW Thing were exported to the United States. These models were basically the standard Type 181 Thing. There were however differences from the Safari model. This included full emissions equipment on the engine, following the chassis number was the letter X for export and on the left centre door pillar a U.S. DOT sticker. Initially they were to carry the title of Type 181 however VW wanted the model to be known as the Safari. Unfortunately General Motors "owned" the use of "The Safari" in the US market, having used it on Pontiac Station Wagons from 1955.
With this situation Volkswagen of America therefore settled on calling the Type 181 as "The Thing". This official title was supported in VW literature and in 42 states DMV registrations. The VW Thing was sold in Canada and several other countries, they were trans-shipped from the United States after delivery.
ACAPULCO
Available in 1974, the VW Thing "Acapulco" model was a stock VW Thing with a few minor trim changes. The body work was painted blue & white with a matching interior & running boards were also fitted, they came with either a hardtop or soft top and usually a surry top.
SAFARI
Produced for the Mexican domestic market the Safari was also exported to countries to the south of Mexico. So that the Safari could run on lower grade Premex gasolines the Mexican domestic engines all had low compression pistons installed.
TYPE 182 (Trekker)
The VW Thing in right hand drive format was produced for the UK market, as demonstrators, made to specific order or for military use in countries where right hand drive was the standards and was designated the Type 182. Only small numbers of type 182s were produced and the type 182 was officially sold in Britain by VW dealers in 1974-75, under the name "Trekker". This followed a competition held by Volkswagen UK to "name the car" due to dealers objecting to the "VW Thing" name. Press reports at the time that 300 were being imported are contradicted by records of surviving chassis numbers showing less than 100. This was probably due to overpricing and therefore did not sell very well. Made in Mexico (not Germany), generally to 1974 THING specification, but with European rear-lights and front flashers.
If you are looking to buy a VW Thing then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Thing
TYPE 181
This is the Official Volkswagen factory designation for the left hand drive VW Thing. Originally built for the German Federal Army (Bundeswehr) as a designated multi-purpose vehicle. In the German market it is known as the Kubel or Kubelwagen, the same as its predecessor from World War 2.
THING
In 1973 and 1974 28,930 units of the VW Thing were exported to the United States. These models were basically the standard Type 181 Thing. There were however differences from the Safari model. This included full emissions equipment on the engine, following the chassis number was the letter X for export and on the left centre door pillar a U.S. DOT sticker. Initially they were to carry the title of Type 181 however VW wanted the model to be known as the Safari. Unfortunately General Motors "owned" the use of "The Safari" in the US market, having used it on Pontiac Station Wagons from 1955.
With this situation Volkswagen of America therefore settled on calling the Type 181 as "The Thing". This official title was supported in VW literature and in 42 states DMV registrations. The VW Thing was sold in Canada and several other countries, they were trans-shipped from the United States after delivery.
ACAPULCO
Available in 1974, the VW Thing "Acapulco" model was a stock VW Thing with a few minor trim changes. The body work was painted blue & white with a matching interior & running boards were also fitted, they came with either a hardtop or soft top and usually a surry top.
SAFARI
Produced for the Mexican domestic market the Safari was also exported to countries to the south of Mexico. So that the Safari could run on lower grade Premex gasolines the Mexican domestic engines all had low compression pistons installed.
TYPE 182 (Trekker)
The VW Thing in right hand drive format was produced for the UK market, as demonstrators, made to specific order or for military use in countries where right hand drive was the standards and was designated the Type 182. Only small numbers of type 182s were produced and the type 182 was officially sold in Britain by VW dealers in 1974-75, under the name "Trekker". This followed a competition held by Volkswagen UK to "name the car" due to dealers objecting to the "VW Thing" name. Press reports at the time that 300 were being imported are contradicted by records of surviving chassis numbers showing less than 100. This was probably due to overpricing and therefore did not sell very well. Made in Mexico (not Germany), generally to 1974 THING specification, but with European rear-lights and front flashers.
If you are looking to buy a VW Thing then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Thing
Thursday 2 October 2008
History of the Datsun 240Z
The history of the Datsun 240z begins in 1969 when launched as a 1970model to the motoring world. The Datsun 240z was not a new concept as many manufacturers had achieved sports cars with excellent performance, strong engineering, and attractive styling with mediocre interiors at a low cost. The success of the 240z was down to the fact that the car perfected the idea of a low cost, reliable sports car. The man responsible for the design and creation of the Datsun 240z was Yutaka Katayama and in recognition of his involvement of this legendary vehicle he was inducted into the Automobile Hall of Fame in 1998.
The history of the Datsun 240z engine is quite interesting as it is a deviant of the Datsun 1600 engine which in itself was a replica of the 1960's Mercedes Benz six cylinder with two less cylinders. Add two extra cylinders back to the Datsun 1600 engine and you have the 240z engine with 151 brake horsepower. With 146 pound-feet of torque you have a vehicle that could reach 0-sixty in eight seconds add to this the rack and pinion steering and independent suspension and you have a car with quick response, great performance and handling. Bringing all this to a halt in just seconds you had front disc brakes. With its launch price tag of $3500 it was much less than its rivals on the market at that time.
There is a strong history of the Datsun 240z with the Sports Car Club of America as it dominated the c-class production category for 10 years from 1970-1979. John Morton driving for Brock Enterprises in 1970 and 1971 claimed the first victory in the SCCA c-class production racing using a 240z. In 1972, 1973 and again in 1975 Bob Sharp was victorious in a 240z with Walt Mass continuing the winning run in 1974.
1974 saw an increase in the engine size to 2.6 litres and the vehicle renamed as the 260z effectively bringing to the end the 240z series having sold just under 117,000 models during its lifetime. The 260z engine had a lower brake horsepower of 139 as a result of the increasing emissions regulations in the United States as each year passed.
The Datsun 260z proved to be a far more practical car than its predecessor and during its first and only year of production it sold 63,963 units giving it the Z-series all time sales record.
If you're looking to buy a datsun 240z then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/datsun/z-series
The history of the Datsun 240z engine is quite interesting as it is a deviant of the Datsun 1600 engine which in itself was a replica of the 1960's Mercedes Benz six cylinder with two less cylinders. Add two extra cylinders back to the Datsun 1600 engine and you have the 240z engine with 151 brake horsepower. With 146 pound-feet of torque you have a vehicle that could reach 0-sixty in eight seconds add to this the rack and pinion steering and independent suspension and you have a car with quick response, great performance and handling. Bringing all this to a halt in just seconds you had front disc brakes. With its launch price tag of $3500 it was much less than its rivals on the market at that time.
There is a strong history of the Datsun 240z with the Sports Car Club of America as it dominated the c-class production category for 10 years from 1970-1979. John Morton driving for Brock Enterprises in 1970 and 1971 claimed the first victory in the SCCA c-class production racing using a 240z. In 1972, 1973 and again in 1975 Bob Sharp was victorious in a 240z with Walt Mass continuing the winning run in 1974.
1974 saw an increase in the engine size to 2.6 litres and the vehicle renamed as the 260z effectively bringing to the end the 240z series having sold just under 117,000 models during its lifetime. The 260z engine had a lower brake horsepower of 139 as a result of the increasing emissions regulations in the United States as each year passed.
The Datsun 260z proved to be a far more practical car than its predecessor and during its first and only year of production it sold 63,963 units giving it the Z-series all time sales record.
If you're looking to buy a datsun 240z then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/datsun/z-series
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