Developed by Henry Ford the Model T entered production in 1908 and 2008 marks the 100th anniversary of the first mass-produced car to be made on a production line. Ford aimed to develop a car affordable to the masses and through this goal the Model T changed the world and turned America into an industrial economy and mobile society. Buying a Ford Model T in 1908 cost half the price of its rivals and would help drive the change from horse to automobile. The Model T was produced until 1927 by which time more than 15 million models had been sold.
The Car
Early Ford Model T's had no doors, the windscreen was braced with leather straps and the styling was typically formal and upright as is usual with cars of this era. There were changes made, the 1915 model for example has a single passenger side door but the driver's side was covered by the spare wheel where the door would be. Also the back seat is set over the rear axle, allowing for plenty of leg room but no allowance made for carrying luggage.
What will your Money buy you
With a some sixteen million made there are plenty to choose from when Buying a Ford Model T. Prices today depend on the condition of the car and you can expect to pay around $5000 for a project car and over $10,000 for a car in good running order. Specialist companies can supply most if not all parts that maybe required for any restoration or small service that maybe required. In 1910 a Model T cost £220 and by 1919 the price had reduced to £170.It's important to remember that you're buying a car with very little in the way of accessories with four wheels, a steering wheel, an engine, basic electrics and weather protection. Hard to believe however that leather seats and wood trim came as standard. In 1915 if you were lucky enough to have a car the basic equipment the Ford Model T came with was a luxury!
Driving Experience
If you're planning on buying a Ford Model T then forget everything you've learned about driving. The controls look standard with three pedals, a handbrake and the steering column has two stalks. Despite the apparently normal set up, about the only thing that is vaguely normal is the brake pedal on the right. The other two pedals control the two-speed and reverse transmission. The middle pedal selects reverse gear while the left pedal - in conjunction with the handbrake-like lever - selects neutral, low or high gear. The left hand stalk on the steering column is the throttle with no return spring and the right-hand control manages the ignition timing. The hand lever has three positions: fully back the transmission is in neutral and the rear wheel brakes are on. In the middle position the brakes are off and the transmission is in neutral. The forward position gives a choice of low or high gear - press down on the left pedal for low gear, release it for top gear.
The Ford Model T travels along at about 20-30mph. It is strange experience at first as you are driving with your feet off the pedals. At these speeds the upright windscreen keeps the wind off and the exhaust acts as a heater for the drivers feet in winter conditions.
Worth Noting
When buying a Ford Model T it is worth remembering that it was designed and built for a massively different driving experience. The roads back then were dirt tracks at best, there was much less traffic on the roads, driving was an entirely new skill and motor mechanics were thin on the ground. The brakes were designed for stopping you at your destination, you needed plenty of ground clearance and your local blacksmith was your local mechanic. Given these details you must be careful when taking a journey as driving a Ford Model T in modern traffic is a challenge and it won't dodge and weave through traffic like a modern car. The high driving position offers a good view and if you do hit anything the Model T is pretty solid.
In Summary
Owning a Ford Model T should give years of satisfaction as a hobby and few cars can match this experience considering the age of the vehicle.
If you're looking o buy a Ford Model T then please visit the following website, the selection here is fantastic! http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Model-T
Sunday 21 December 2008
Tuesday 16 December 2008
Engine Swap - Rough Guide
One of the most cost efficient routes to increasing engine power is to swap engines, where possible use an engine from the same make and model as the gearboxes should be from the same range and engine mounts should be easily obtained rather than fabricating custom mounts. Often engines from high powered saloons from a manufacturer will fit the smaller family type car from the same stable.
The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.
Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.
Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?
When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.
If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.
When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.
The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.
If you are looking for an engine to start your engine swap or need further parts to complete your engine swap then please visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/
The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.
Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.
Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?
When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.
If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.
When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.
The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.
If you are looking for an engine to start your engine swap or need further parts to complete your engine swap then please visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/
Monday 15 December 2008
VW Karmann Ghia Type 1 Buyers Guide
Thanks to the drive of Wilhelm Karmann Gmbh to produce a sports bodied car upon a tried and tested chassis we can today enjoy the Volkswagen Karmann Ghia. In 1954 VW approved the plans and designs and this was quickly followed by an announcement to supply the chassis's. The European Motor Shows in 1955 saw the debut of the first models.
When buying a Karmann Ghia, the model for you depends on your circumstances. If your plans are to have a car that will be used daily or a minimum of 3 or 4 times per week, then you would probably be better with a later model as they have more powerful engines and a more modern feel to the interior. If money is no object and you are really looking for an occasional or second car then look no further than a 1950's model, the early classic is understandably the most prized and this is reflected in the prices they command. Whatever your needs and whatever model you decide to go for remember to check for corrosion, as even the later models are now over 30 years old and time will take its toll.
The best prices are undoubtedly found in private sales and online. When viewing a car if possible take someone with you who knows what to look for. Bodywork is the key factor, if you can get the very best your budget can stretch to, a single front work alone can be very costly to replace. The mechanical side of a Karmann Ghia is all VW Beetle and therefore simple to work on and learn, if possible pick up a copy of "How to Keep Your VW Alive" book by John Muir. There are plenty of VW air-cooled specialists around and most can now be found online or ask around at shows etc for recommendations.
The final consideration is your choice of coupe or cabriolet, as previously with the model year a coupe maybe the better choice as a daily driver mainly from a security viewpoint but also the coupe has slightly more room in the rear than a cabriolet with the cover up. Obviously if you're lucky enough to live in warmer climates, then the cabriolet maybe the first consideration for you. Either way as mentioned earlier when buying a karmann Ghia Type 1 try and buy the best you can afford.
If you're looking to buy a VW Karmann Ghia then try the following website with great deals online at http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Karmann-Ghia
When buying a Karmann Ghia, the model for you depends on your circumstances. If your plans are to have a car that will be used daily or a minimum of 3 or 4 times per week, then you would probably be better with a later model as they have more powerful engines and a more modern feel to the interior. If money is no object and you are really looking for an occasional or second car then look no further than a 1950's model, the early classic is understandably the most prized and this is reflected in the prices they command. Whatever your needs and whatever model you decide to go for remember to check for corrosion, as even the later models are now over 30 years old and time will take its toll.
The best prices are undoubtedly found in private sales and online. When viewing a car if possible take someone with you who knows what to look for. Bodywork is the key factor, if you can get the very best your budget can stretch to, a single front work alone can be very costly to replace. The mechanical side of a Karmann Ghia is all VW Beetle and therefore simple to work on and learn, if possible pick up a copy of "How to Keep Your VW Alive" book by John Muir. There are plenty of VW air-cooled specialists around and most can now be found online or ask around at shows etc for recommendations.
The final consideration is your choice of coupe or cabriolet, as previously with the model year a coupe maybe the better choice as a daily driver mainly from a security viewpoint but also the coupe has slightly more room in the rear than a cabriolet with the cover up. Obviously if you're lucky enough to live in warmer climates, then the cabriolet maybe the first consideration for you. Either way as mentioned earlier when buying a karmann Ghia Type 1 try and buy the best you can afford.
If you're looking to buy a VW Karmann Ghia then try the following website with great deals online at http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Karmann-Ghia
Tuesday 9 December 2008
Guide to Buying a Cheap Used Car
Current Global Economic conditions have had an impact on moving the price of used cars down, great news if you're in the market for buying a cheap used car.
Why Buy a Cheap Used Car?
There are plenty of great deals to be had at the moment meaning that the vehicle for you is out there just waiting! By going used you will probably get a whole lot more for your money with little fuss or bother.
Your first consideration is to think about the make and model of car you feel ideally suits your needs, for example if space is your key need then a 2 seat sports coupe is out of the question. Where possible try and read some reviews on the cars that interest you to gain an understanding of its strong points and its faults and also be sure you have a good idea of the current prices depending on condition, mileage etc. Have a clear idea of your budget, and included in this you need to think about ongoing motoring costs such as insurance, servicing and gas costs.
Where Can I Buy a Used Car?
Dealership - Franchise
A dealership that usually has a tie in with one manufacturer, selling both new and used cars. They service they provide should be first class and this is passed on through the costs but you will get what you pay for.
Dealership - Independent
Independents generally do not have a tie with a manufacturer and the quality of service you receive can differ. Some Independents will specialize in a particular make or model whilst others have large stocks of cars available.
Private Sales
Agreeing and sealing a Private Sale can be a fantastic experience and you should be able to negotiate a better deal for yourself with a private individual than a dealer. Be advised however that should anything backfire there is often no legal comeback. Always have a list of questions ready about the vehicle and try to gain an impression of the seller and the car.
What Questions Should I Ask?
Below are some sample questions to ask the seller:
Why are they selling the car?
How long have they owned it?
How many previous owners?
Has the car had any collision damage?
Is there outstanding finance on the vehicle?
Finally please remember that thousands of cars are bought and sold daily without a hitch but please also take the following precautions:
Do not go ahead with a deal or exchange funds until you are sure the seller is genuine
Check the milometer shows no signs of tampering
Check for suspicious welding underneath the vehicle, unscrupulous garages can and do join together two halves of two badly damaged cars to make one good car (visually!)
If you're looking to buy a cheap used car then please visit www.americanautobid.com/ where you can find a huge selection of thousands of used cars & trucks for sale online! Don't delay visit today!
Why Buy a Cheap Used Car?
There are plenty of great deals to be had at the moment meaning that the vehicle for you is out there just waiting! By going used you will probably get a whole lot more for your money with little fuss or bother.
Your first consideration is to think about the make and model of car you feel ideally suits your needs, for example if space is your key need then a 2 seat sports coupe is out of the question. Where possible try and read some reviews on the cars that interest you to gain an understanding of its strong points and its faults and also be sure you have a good idea of the current prices depending on condition, mileage etc. Have a clear idea of your budget, and included in this you need to think about ongoing motoring costs such as insurance, servicing and gas costs.
Where Can I Buy a Used Car?
Dealership - Franchise
A dealership that usually has a tie in with one manufacturer, selling both new and used cars. They service they provide should be first class and this is passed on through the costs but you will get what you pay for.
Dealership - Independent
Independents generally do not have a tie with a manufacturer and the quality of service you receive can differ. Some Independents will specialize in a particular make or model whilst others have large stocks of cars available.
Private Sales
Agreeing and sealing a Private Sale can be a fantastic experience and you should be able to negotiate a better deal for yourself with a private individual than a dealer. Be advised however that should anything backfire there is often no legal comeback. Always have a list of questions ready about the vehicle and try to gain an impression of the seller and the car.
What Questions Should I Ask?
Below are some sample questions to ask the seller:
Why are they selling the car?
How long have they owned it?
How many previous owners?
Has the car had any collision damage?
Is there outstanding finance on the vehicle?
Finally please remember that thousands of cars are bought and sold daily without a hitch but please also take the following precautions:
Do not go ahead with a deal or exchange funds until you are sure the seller is genuine
Check the milometer shows no signs of tampering
Check for suspicious welding underneath the vehicle, unscrupulous garages can and do join together two halves of two badly damaged cars to make one good car (visually!)
If you're looking to buy a cheap used car then please visit www.americanautobid.com/ where you can find a huge selection of thousands of used cars & trucks for sale online! Don't delay visit today!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
