Developed by Henry Ford the Model T entered production in 1908 and 2008 marks the 100th anniversary of the first mass-produced car to be made on a production line. Ford aimed to develop a car affordable to the masses and through this goal the Model T changed the world and turned America into an industrial economy and mobile society. Buying a Ford Model T in 1908 cost half the price of its rivals and would help drive the change from horse to automobile. The Model T was produced until 1927 by which time more than 15 million models had been sold.
The Car
Early Ford Model T's had no doors, the windscreen was braced with leather straps and the styling was typically formal and upright as is usual with cars of this era. There were changes made, the 1915 model for example has a single passenger side door but the driver's side was covered by the spare wheel where the door would be. Also the back seat is set over the rear axle, allowing for plenty of leg room but no allowance made for carrying luggage.
What will your Money buy you
With a some sixteen million made there are plenty to choose from when Buying a Ford Model T. Prices today depend on the condition of the car and you can expect to pay around $5000 for a project car and over $10,000 for a car in good running order. Specialist companies can supply most if not all parts that maybe required for any restoration or small service that maybe required. In 1910 a Model T cost £220 and by 1919 the price had reduced to £170.It's important to remember that you're buying a car with very little in the way of accessories with four wheels, a steering wheel, an engine, basic electrics and weather protection. Hard to believe however that leather seats and wood trim came as standard. In 1915 if you were lucky enough to have a car the basic equipment the Ford Model T came with was a luxury!
Driving Experience
If you're planning on buying a Ford Model T then forget everything you've learned about driving. The controls look standard with three pedals, a handbrake and the steering column has two stalks. Despite the apparently normal set up, about the only thing that is vaguely normal is the brake pedal on the right. The other two pedals control the two-speed and reverse transmission. The middle pedal selects reverse gear while the left pedal - in conjunction with the handbrake-like lever - selects neutral, low or high gear. The left hand stalk on the steering column is the throttle with no return spring and the right-hand control manages the ignition timing. The hand lever has three positions: fully back the transmission is in neutral and the rear wheel brakes are on. In the middle position the brakes are off and the transmission is in neutral. The forward position gives a choice of low or high gear - press down on the left pedal for low gear, release it for top gear.
The Ford Model T travels along at about 20-30mph. It is strange experience at first as you are driving with your feet off the pedals. At these speeds the upright windscreen keeps the wind off and the exhaust acts as a heater for the drivers feet in winter conditions.
Worth Noting
When buying a Ford Model T it is worth remembering that it was designed and built for a massively different driving experience. The roads back then were dirt tracks at best, there was much less traffic on the roads, driving was an entirely new skill and motor mechanics were thin on the ground. The brakes were designed for stopping you at your destination, you needed plenty of ground clearance and your local blacksmith was your local mechanic. Given these details you must be careful when taking a journey as driving a Ford Model T in modern traffic is a challenge and it won't dodge and weave through traffic like a modern car. The high driving position offers a good view and if you do hit anything the Model T is pretty solid.
In Summary
Owning a Ford Model T should give years of satisfaction as a hobby and few cars can match this experience considering the age of the vehicle.
If you're looking o buy a Ford Model T then please visit the following website, the selection here is fantastic! http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Model-T
Sunday 21 December 2008
Tuesday 16 December 2008
Engine Swap - Rough Guide
One of the most cost efficient routes to increasing engine power is to swap engines, where possible use an engine from the same make and model as the gearboxes should be from the same range and engine mounts should be easily obtained rather than fabricating custom mounts. Often engines from high powered saloons from a manufacturer will fit the smaller family type car from the same stable.
The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.
Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.
Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?
When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.
If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.
When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.
The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.
If you are looking for an engine to start your engine swap or need further parts to complete your engine swap then please visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/
The key to a successful engine swap is the engine bay - so long as the planned new engine fits any engine can be made to work. If you want to go the whole hog and make a professional job of the engine swap then ideally the car should be stripped to a complete shell to enable to enable a custom drive train to be fitted and complete new loom fitted to handle the new engine.
Beware if the engine swap you are looking to conduct means you will be increasing power in the region of twice the original engines output you must plan to change the gearbox.
Before starting have a look around one of the many forums on the internet to see if the change you are planning has been done before, there will be plenty of tips and people willing to provide information to help you. Also check the requirements for the swap for example will you need shorter drive shafts, new wiring loom or engine management upgrade?
When setting yourself a budget (which must be done if you are realistic about finishing the job) add additional funds on top of around 40 - 50% for those nasty surprises that can and will crop up. When looking for a donor engine look for engines that have been running recently and not stood around - these will need a total strip down increasing your costs and delaying the end of the project.
If you are not planning a total strip down you should at least replace the following items - core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts. Whilst the head is off it is worth checking the engine for further damage and if the work is required then best to put it right now to avoid more expense later. If your budget allows then whilst the engine is stripped down you have the ideal opportunity to complete further modifications such as engine balanced, crank and flywheel lightened and improved gas flow with a machined head. At this stage replacing the water pump, fuel pump and oil pump is advised as any failure of these cheap parts will ruin all your other hard work.
When fitted the new engine needs running for a few seconds, prior to this check all leads and hoses are fitted correctly. After the initial run check the oil pressure and level, water level and check the engine and ground for leaks.
The bedding in period should be taken carefully keeping the revs low and keep a constant eye on the oil and temperature gauge. The oil filter needs changing at 200, 500 and 3000 miles to remove the metal fragments that will collect. After following this running in period then you can start to enjoy that increase in performance you were planning for when you started this project.
If you are looking for an engine to start your engine swap or need further parts to complete your engine swap then please visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/
Monday 15 December 2008
VW Karmann Ghia Type 1 Buyers Guide
Thanks to the drive of Wilhelm Karmann Gmbh to produce a sports bodied car upon a tried and tested chassis we can today enjoy the Volkswagen Karmann Ghia. In 1954 VW approved the plans and designs and this was quickly followed by an announcement to supply the chassis's. The European Motor Shows in 1955 saw the debut of the first models.
When buying a Karmann Ghia, the model for you depends on your circumstances. If your plans are to have a car that will be used daily or a minimum of 3 or 4 times per week, then you would probably be better with a later model as they have more powerful engines and a more modern feel to the interior. If money is no object and you are really looking for an occasional or second car then look no further than a 1950's model, the early classic is understandably the most prized and this is reflected in the prices they command. Whatever your needs and whatever model you decide to go for remember to check for corrosion, as even the later models are now over 30 years old and time will take its toll.
The best prices are undoubtedly found in private sales and online. When viewing a car if possible take someone with you who knows what to look for. Bodywork is the key factor, if you can get the very best your budget can stretch to, a single front work alone can be very costly to replace. The mechanical side of a Karmann Ghia is all VW Beetle and therefore simple to work on and learn, if possible pick up a copy of "How to Keep Your VW Alive" book by John Muir. There are plenty of VW air-cooled specialists around and most can now be found online or ask around at shows etc for recommendations.
The final consideration is your choice of coupe or cabriolet, as previously with the model year a coupe maybe the better choice as a daily driver mainly from a security viewpoint but also the coupe has slightly more room in the rear than a cabriolet with the cover up. Obviously if you're lucky enough to live in warmer climates, then the cabriolet maybe the first consideration for you. Either way as mentioned earlier when buying a karmann Ghia Type 1 try and buy the best you can afford.
If you're looking to buy a VW Karmann Ghia then try the following website with great deals online at http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Karmann-Ghia
When buying a Karmann Ghia, the model for you depends on your circumstances. If your plans are to have a car that will be used daily or a minimum of 3 or 4 times per week, then you would probably be better with a later model as they have more powerful engines and a more modern feel to the interior. If money is no object and you are really looking for an occasional or second car then look no further than a 1950's model, the early classic is understandably the most prized and this is reflected in the prices they command. Whatever your needs and whatever model you decide to go for remember to check for corrosion, as even the later models are now over 30 years old and time will take its toll.
The best prices are undoubtedly found in private sales and online. When viewing a car if possible take someone with you who knows what to look for. Bodywork is the key factor, if you can get the very best your budget can stretch to, a single front work alone can be very costly to replace. The mechanical side of a Karmann Ghia is all VW Beetle and therefore simple to work on and learn, if possible pick up a copy of "How to Keep Your VW Alive" book by John Muir. There are plenty of VW air-cooled specialists around and most can now be found online or ask around at shows etc for recommendations.
The final consideration is your choice of coupe or cabriolet, as previously with the model year a coupe maybe the better choice as a daily driver mainly from a security viewpoint but also the coupe has slightly more room in the rear than a cabriolet with the cover up. Obviously if you're lucky enough to live in warmer climates, then the cabriolet maybe the first consideration for you. Either way as mentioned earlier when buying a karmann Ghia Type 1 try and buy the best you can afford.
If you're looking to buy a VW Karmann Ghia then try the following website with great deals online at http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Karmann-Ghia
Tuesday 9 December 2008
Guide to Buying a Cheap Used Car
Current Global Economic conditions have had an impact on moving the price of used cars down, great news if you're in the market for buying a cheap used car.
Why Buy a Cheap Used Car?
There are plenty of great deals to be had at the moment meaning that the vehicle for you is out there just waiting! By going used you will probably get a whole lot more for your money with little fuss or bother.
Your first consideration is to think about the make and model of car you feel ideally suits your needs, for example if space is your key need then a 2 seat sports coupe is out of the question. Where possible try and read some reviews on the cars that interest you to gain an understanding of its strong points and its faults and also be sure you have a good idea of the current prices depending on condition, mileage etc. Have a clear idea of your budget, and included in this you need to think about ongoing motoring costs such as insurance, servicing and gas costs.
Where Can I Buy a Used Car?
Dealership - Franchise
A dealership that usually has a tie in with one manufacturer, selling both new and used cars. They service they provide should be first class and this is passed on through the costs but you will get what you pay for.
Dealership - Independent
Independents generally do not have a tie with a manufacturer and the quality of service you receive can differ. Some Independents will specialize in a particular make or model whilst others have large stocks of cars available.
Private Sales
Agreeing and sealing a Private Sale can be a fantastic experience and you should be able to negotiate a better deal for yourself with a private individual than a dealer. Be advised however that should anything backfire there is often no legal comeback. Always have a list of questions ready about the vehicle and try to gain an impression of the seller and the car.
What Questions Should I Ask?
Below are some sample questions to ask the seller:
Why are they selling the car?
How long have they owned it?
How many previous owners?
Has the car had any collision damage?
Is there outstanding finance on the vehicle?
Finally please remember that thousands of cars are bought and sold daily without a hitch but please also take the following precautions:
Do not go ahead with a deal or exchange funds until you are sure the seller is genuine
Check the milometer shows no signs of tampering
Check for suspicious welding underneath the vehicle, unscrupulous garages can and do join together two halves of two badly damaged cars to make one good car (visually!)
If you're looking to buy a cheap used car then please visit www.americanautobid.com/ where you can find a huge selection of thousands of used cars & trucks for sale online! Don't delay visit today!
Why Buy a Cheap Used Car?
There are plenty of great deals to be had at the moment meaning that the vehicle for you is out there just waiting! By going used you will probably get a whole lot more for your money with little fuss or bother.
Your first consideration is to think about the make and model of car you feel ideally suits your needs, for example if space is your key need then a 2 seat sports coupe is out of the question. Where possible try and read some reviews on the cars that interest you to gain an understanding of its strong points and its faults and also be sure you have a good idea of the current prices depending on condition, mileage etc. Have a clear idea of your budget, and included in this you need to think about ongoing motoring costs such as insurance, servicing and gas costs.
Where Can I Buy a Used Car?
Dealership - Franchise
A dealership that usually has a tie in with one manufacturer, selling both new and used cars. They service they provide should be first class and this is passed on through the costs but you will get what you pay for.
Dealership - Independent
Independents generally do not have a tie with a manufacturer and the quality of service you receive can differ. Some Independents will specialize in a particular make or model whilst others have large stocks of cars available.
Private Sales
Agreeing and sealing a Private Sale can be a fantastic experience and you should be able to negotiate a better deal for yourself with a private individual than a dealer. Be advised however that should anything backfire there is often no legal comeback. Always have a list of questions ready about the vehicle and try to gain an impression of the seller and the car.
What Questions Should I Ask?
Below are some sample questions to ask the seller:
Why are they selling the car?
How long have they owned it?
How many previous owners?
Has the car had any collision damage?
Is there outstanding finance on the vehicle?
Finally please remember that thousands of cars are bought and sold daily without a hitch but please also take the following precautions:
Do not go ahead with a deal or exchange funds until you are sure the seller is genuine
Check the milometer shows no signs of tampering
Check for suspicious welding underneath the vehicle, unscrupulous garages can and do join together two halves of two badly damaged cars to make one good car (visually!)
If you're looking to buy a cheap used car then please visit www.americanautobid.com/ where you can find a huge selection of thousands of used cars & trucks for sale online! Don't delay visit today!
Tuesday 11 November 2008
BMW 3-Series -A Brief History for Buyers
The BMW 3 Series is a vehicle that is popular across the Globe and it made BMW an Auto Industry giant. A brief history of the 3 Series is highlighted below.
1600-2002 - 1966 to 1976 BMW almost faced bankruptcy with the 1500 and the decision was taken to launch a smaller family saloon and delivered the 1600-2002 series that itself become an auto legend proving to be a big success for the German carmaker. The BMW 1600 could reach 60mph in 13 seconds and the BMW 2002 Turbo was the first European turbo-charged power plant. Thousands of the 1600-2002 series rolled off the production lines until its demise in 1976 - what followed would not only amaze the motoring world but BMW also!
BMW 3 Series - 1976 to 1982 What followed was the BMW 3 Series, a car that rewrote the rules for the compact saloon. The early models came with 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines but thanks to a weight of just over 1000kgs a lively drive was guaranteed. The launch model was the BMW 320i with a four cylinder engine giving 125bhp with independent suspension. At the 1977 Frankfurt motor show the BMW 323i was launched with the first of the six cylinder engines. The six cylinder produced 143bhp and with the help of cutting edge electronics helped the deliver an average of 21mpg. The cars success amazed BMW and by the close of 1982 over one million BMW 3 series had left the factory.
BMW 3 Series - 1983 to 1990 The second generation BMW 3 series left other cars in its segment far behind. It was lighter, had increased interior space and a larger range of more powerful engines than the first generation. The straight-six cylinder 2.5-litre unit developed 171bhp - just 50bhp less than a 2008 BMW 325i two-door coupe and was capable of 135mph. More was to come at the 1985 Frankfurt motor show in when BMW revealed the very first M-powered 3 Series - the BMW M3. The M3 established BMW's reputation as the number one manufacturer of cars for drivers! This car won every single Touring Car Championship in the world in the late 1980's. The second generation reached just over two million units produced during its production run.
BMW 3 Series - 1990 to 1998
The third-generation BMW 3 Series proved to be another huge seller for the Munich-based carmaker. The design saw massive improvements in engineering and chassis development including the latest design of the Z rear axle set-up. An array of body styles were launched, including the Touring estate, four door, convertible and coupe - the rebadged two door model. The real anticipation was for the hardcore M3 in a fresh, new body. BMW didn't disappoint with a high-revving 3 litre six cylinder producing 286bhp in favour of the old 2.5 litre. In 1995 the M3 Evolution was produced with a 3.2 litre six cylinder engine producing a massive 321bhp giving a 0-60mph of 5.4 seconds. And while this M3 may have lacked the racing pedigree of the original, it was a hit with buyers. More than 2.7 million third generation 3 Series were sold, and of these, 70,000 were M3s.
BMW 3 Series - 1998 to 2005 This generation of 3 Series boasted a full 12cm of extra legroom than the original model and continued the massive success built by the previous generations and as proof more than three million fourth generation BMW 3 Series were sold. The fourth generation BMW 3 Series was to prove the power of diesel to the world with the BMW 330d delivering 184bhp and more than 40mpg. Also the 320d with its 2 litre 150bhp engine became the biggest selling vehicle in BMW's range. The fourth generation BMW M3 came with a 3.2-litre straight-six unit developing 343bhp giving a 0-60mph in 5 seconds with a top speed of 155mph.
BMW 3 Series - 2005 to date In 2005 the fifth generation BMW 3 series was launched with improved handling and a new line of engines both diesel and petrol. The new 3 litre unit gives 272bhp whilst the twin-turbocharged 3 litre diesel engine puts out an impressive 286bhp. The latest generation M3 has been produced with a V8 power-plant constructed from aluminium. The result is 420bhp and 0-62mph in just 4.8 seconds, making this the fastest and most powerful production M3 ever.
The BMW 3-Series has sold over ten million cars since 1975 and is now the most sought after sports saloon and coupe across the Globe! If you're looking at buying a BMW 3-Series then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/BMW/3-Series view the shop with a large selection of BMW 3-Series for sale.
1600-2002 - 1966 to 1976 BMW almost faced bankruptcy with the 1500 and the decision was taken to launch a smaller family saloon and delivered the 1600-2002 series that itself become an auto legend proving to be a big success for the German carmaker. The BMW 1600 could reach 60mph in 13 seconds and the BMW 2002 Turbo was the first European turbo-charged power plant. Thousands of the 1600-2002 series rolled off the production lines until its demise in 1976 - what followed would not only amaze the motoring world but BMW also!
BMW 3 Series - 1976 to 1982 What followed was the BMW 3 Series, a car that rewrote the rules for the compact saloon. The early models came with 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines but thanks to a weight of just over 1000kgs a lively drive was guaranteed. The launch model was the BMW 320i with a four cylinder engine giving 125bhp with independent suspension. At the 1977 Frankfurt motor show the BMW 323i was launched with the first of the six cylinder engines. The six cylinder produced 143bhp and with the help of cutting edge electronics helped the deliver an average of 21mpg. The cars success amazed BMW and by the close of 1982 over one million BMW 3 series had left the factory.
BMW 3 Series - 1983 to 1990 The second generation BMW 3 series left other cars in its segment far behind. It was lighter, had increased interior space and a larger range of more powerful engines than the first generation. The straight-six cylinder 2.5-litre unit developed 171bhp - just 50bhp less than a 2008 BMW 325i two-door coupe and was capable of 135mph. More was to come at the 1985 Frankfurt motor show in when BMW revealed the very first M-powered 3 Series - the BMW M3. The M3 established BMW's reputation as the number one manufacturer of cars for drivers! This car won every single Touring Car Championship in the world in the late 1980's. The second generation reached just over two million units produced during its production run.
BMW 3 Series - 1990 to 1998
The third-generation BMW 3 Series proved to be another huge seller for the Munich-based carmaker. The design saw massive improvements in engineering and chassis development including the latest design of the Z rear axle set-up. An array of body styles were launched, including the Touring estate, four door, convertible and coupe - the rebadged two door model. The real anticipation was for the hardcore M3 in a fresh, new body. BMW didn't disappoint with a high-revving 3 litre six cylinder producing 286bhp in favour of the old 2.5 litre. In 1995 the M3 Evolution was produced with a 3.2 litre six cylinder engine producing a massive 321bhp giving a 0-60mph of 5.4 seconds. And while this M3 may have lacked the racing pedigree of the original, it was a hit with buyers. More than 2.7 million third generation 3 Series were sold, and of these, 70,000 were M3s.
BMW 3 Series - 1998 to 2005 This generation of 3 Series boasted a full 12cm of extra legroom than the original model and continued the massive success built by the previous generations and as proof more than three million fourth generation BMW 3 Series were sold. The fourth generation BMW 3 Series was to prove the power of diesel to the world with the BMW 330d delivering 184bhp and more than 40mpg. Also the 320d with its 2 litre 150bhp engine became the biggest selling vehicle in BMW's range. The fourth generation BMW M3 came with a 3.2-litre straight-six unit developing 343bhp giving a 0-60mph in 5 seconds with a top speed of 155mph.
BMW 3 Series - 2005 to date In 2005 the fifth generation BMW 3 series was launched with improved handling and a new line of engines both diesel and petrol. The new 3 litre unit gives 272bhp whilst the twin-turbocharged 3 litre diesel engine puts out an impressive 286bhp. The latest generation M3 has been produced with a V8 power-plant constructed from aluminium. The result is 420bhp and 0-62mph in just 4.8 seconds, making this the fastest and most powerful production M3 ever.
The BMW 3-Series has sold over ten million cars since 1975 and is now the most sought after sports saloon and coupe across the Globe! If you're looking at buying a BMW 3-Series then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/BMW/3-Series view the shop with a large selection of BMW 3-Series for sale.
Wednesday 5 November 2008
Guide to Buying an Early Ford Bronco
The early Ford Bronco enjoys a status today among 4x4 fans and classic car devotees that borders on becoming a cult. With a simple design and solid build, excellent handling both on and off road and raw V8 power you have a vehicle that lends itself to many modifications. The early models are now more than 40 years old, the esteem of the classic 1966-1977 Ford Bronco will no doubt continue to grow over the coming years. If you are considering buying an early Ford Bronco then the information here should help you choose the model year that is right for you.
When buying an early Ford Bronco as with the purchase of any older or classic vehicle the usual advice applies to buy the best you can afford with your budget and remember to include ongoing running costs for maintaining an ageing, if modern classic.
Introduced to the motoring public in August 1965 the Ford Bronco was to compete against the Jeep CJ-5 and International Harvester Scout. Initially the early Broncos were very basic; options including power steering and auto transmission were absent. The engine department offered a 105 BHP, 170ci six cylinder - a variant from the Ford Falcon range. Transmission was the three speed manual with a column mounted shifter. Exclusive to the initial models was a tall shifter with a J-handle style ball mounted atop.
The Ford Bronco range was available in wagon, roadster and half cab variations however the roadster proved unpopular and ceased production in 1968. Brakes were drums all round, rear axle was a Ford 9" (up to 1971) and a Dana 30 front axle. The gas tank held 14.5 gallons as standard with a second tank as an optional extra holding an additional 11.5 gallons. The 1966 year model had the following optional extras to choose from: winches, tachometer, tow hooks, trailer hitch, snow plow kit, warn freewheeling hubs and air lift front auxiliary springs. Production for the 1966 model year came to 23,700 units.
1967
1967 saw the Sports Package launched including headlamp and tail lamp bezels, bright finished horn ring, windshield drip, side window frames, cigar lighter, chrome-plated bumpers, front guards and grille (with red "Ford" letters attached to the grille) and 15" wheels trims. In addition to this a bright trimmed headliner and vinyl floor matt were included along with instrument panel trim and tailgate handle. Also new were a dual master cylinder with a split hydraulic system and self adjusting brakes with back up lights and an 11.5 gallon spare fuel tank. 14200 models were produced in 1967.
1968
New in 1968 were front locking hubs and new design inside door handles and window crank knobs along with curved ends on the bumpers and side marker reflectors. 1968 was the last year for the 289ci V8. 16600 models were produced in 1968.
1969
First off the 302ci V8 replaced the 289ci V8, two speed electric wipers were introduced, parking lights with an amber lense replaced the white lense and the steering stabilizer was to become standard. Aluminum door panel trim and a pleated parchment interior were added to the Sport Package and when the rear seat was ordered this came with a rear floor mat. Production levels rose to just under 21,000 models.
1970
The Sports package became a model in its own right instead of a package. The most obvious modifications were the new position of the side marker lights and reflectors. This year saw a reduction in the capacity of the main and spare gas tanks from 12.7 gallons and 10.3 gallons. 1970 saw 18450 Broncos built.
1971
Changes included the Dana 44 becoming the standard Bronco front axle, remote control left hand outside mirror, new headliner for the pick-up and a heavy duty radiator. 1971 saw the limited edition Baja Bronco by Bill Stroppe and Associates introduced - they took a Bronco wagon and made the following modifications: roll bar, front and rear dual shocks, fender flares, larger Gates Commando tires, rubberized steering wheel, bumper braces, automatic transmission, power steering, nameplate and special paint order (red, white, blue, black and white). In total around 650 Baja Broncos were made between 1971 and 1975. Just over 19700 Broncos were made in 1971.
1972
Mid Year changes saw the ranger Package introduced with new striping, argent grille, color coded front and rear pile carpets, deluxe wheel covers, tire cover with "Ranger" lettering, cloth insert bucket seats, fiberboard headliner and wood grained door trim panels. The gas tank reduced in size once again to 7.5 gallons. The T-handle shifter was removed as was the "302" badge V8 front fenders. Production rose to 21,100 units.
1973
This year saw the introduction of the C-4 auto transmission and power steering as an option, the J-Handle transfer case shifter was also introduced. These efforts to modernize the Bronco against stiff competition helped the sales for 1973 achieve just fewer than 21,900 units.
1974
The numbers of Broncos that rolled off the production line hit 25,800 and in this year a new emissions package was introduced for the Californian Broncos making the 200 cid six cylinder engine and 4.11 axles obsolete. Changes were made to the J-handle shifter mechanics and the transmission selector was now lit.
1975
Stricter emissions regulations saw the introduction of unleaded fuel engines, catalytic converters and it is rumored that cam timings were restricted in 1975 to assist with emissions. Sport and Ranger models were fitted with the F-Series steering wheel, ride heights adjusted and an 800 watt engine block heater was available as an option. Lowest ever production numbers were seen of 13,125.
1976
A Special Decor Group had a matt-black finish grille, tape stripe, side window frames, bright windshield molding and wheel covers. Mechanically long awaited power assisted front disc brakes were fitted, rear brakes were also upgraded, Y steering linkage introduced and a front anti sway bar. Production numbers rose slowly to just over 15,200.
1977
The last year for the early Bronco saw the introduction of a heavy duty 9" rear end housing, gas tank doors replaced exterior caps, rear marker lights were now mounted vertically and a 14.4 gallon and 8 gallon gas tank were made in plastic. This is possibly the best of the early models as it includes most of the previous year features. Some previously standard items, such as a passenger's side seat and padded instrument panel, were made optional this year. In its final year of production, 14,546 Broncos rolled off the assembly line before the large Bronco took over in 1978.
If you're looking to buy a Ford Bronco please visit :http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Bronco
When buying an early Ford Bronco as with the purchase of any older or classic vehicle the usual advice applies to buy the best you can afford with your budget and remember to include ongoing running costs for maintaining an ageing, if modern classic.
Introduced to the motoring public in August 1965 the Ford Bronco was to compete against the Jeep CJ-5 and International Harvester Scout. Initially the early Broncos were very basic; options including power steering and auto transmission were absent. The engine department offered a 105 BHP, 170ci six cylinder - a variant from the Ford Falcon range. Transmission was the three speed manual with a column mounted shifter. Exclusive to the initial models was a tall shifter with a J-handle style ball mounted atop.
The Ford Bronco range was available in wagon, roadster and half cab variations however the roadster proved unpopular and ceased production in 1968. Brakes were drums all round, rear axle was a Ford 9" (up to 1971) and a Dana 30 front axle. The gas tank held 14.5 gallons as standard with a second tank as an optional extra holding an additional 11.5 gallons. The 1966 year model had the following optional extras to choose from: winches, tachometer, tow hooks, trailer hitch, snow plow kit, warn freewheeling hubs and air lift front auxiliary springs. Production for the 1966 model year came to 23,700 units.
1967
1967 saw the Sports Package launched including headlamp and tail lamp bezels, bright finished horn ring, windshield drip, side window frames, cigar lighter, chrome-plated bumpers, front guards and grille (with red "Ford" letters attached to the grille) and 15" wheels trims. In addition to this a bright trimmed headliner and vinyl floor matt were included along with instrument panel trim and tailgate handle. Also new were a dual master cylinder with a split hydraulic system and self adjusting brakes with back up lights and an 11.5 gallon spare fuel tank. 14200 models were produced in 1967.
1968
New in 1968 were front locking hubs and new design inside door handles and window crank knobs along with curved ends on the bumpers and side marker reflectors. 1968 was the last year for the 289ci V8. 16600 models were produced in 1968.
1969
First off the 302ci V8 replaced the 289ci V8, two speed electric wipers were introduced, parking lights with an amber lense replaced the white lense and the steering stabilizer was to become standard. Aluminum door panel trim and a pleated parchment interior were added to the Sport Package and when the rear seat was ordered this came with a rear floor mat. Production levels rose to just under 21,000 models.
1970
The Sports package became a model in its own right instead of a package. The most obvious modifications were the new position of the side marker lights and reflectors. This year saw a reduction in the capacity of the main and spare gas tanks from 12.7 gallons and 10.3 gallons. 1970 saw 18450 Broncos built.
1971
Changes included the Dana 44 becoming the standard Bronco front axle, remote control left hand outside mirror, new headliner for the pick-up and a heavy duty radiator. 1971 saw the limited edition Baja Bronco by Bill Stroppe and Associates introduced - they took a Bronco wagon and made the following modifications: roll bar, front and rear dual shocks, fender flares, larger Gates Commando tires, rubberized steering wheel, bumper braces, automatic transmission, power steering, nameplate and special paint order (red, white, blue, black and white). In total around 650 Baja Broncos were made between 1971 and 1975. Just over 19700 Broncos were made in 1971.
1972
Mid Year changes saw the ranger Package introduced with new striping, argent grille, color coded front and rear pile carpets, deluxe wheel covers, tire cover with "Ranger" lettering, cloth insert bucket seats, fiberboard headliner and wood grained door trim panels. The gas tank reduced in size once again to 7.5 gallons. The T-handle shifter was removed as was the "302" badge V8 front fenders. Production rose to 21,100 units.
1973
This year saw the introduction of the C-4 auto transmission and power steering as an option, the J-Handle transfer case shifter was also introduced. These efforts to modernize the Bronco against stiff competition helped the sales for 1973 achieve just fewer than 21,900 units.
1974
The numbers of Broncos that rolled off the production line hit 25,800 and in this year a new emissions package was introduced for the Californian Broncos making the 200 cid six cylinder engine and 4.11 axles obsolete. Changes were made to the J-handle shifter mechanics and the transmission selector was now lit.
1975
Stricter emissions regulations saw the introduction of unleaded fuel engines, catalytic converters and it is rumored that cam timings were restricted in 1975 to assist with emissions. Sport and Ranger models were fitted with the F-Series steering wheel, ride heights adjusted and an 800 watt engine block heater was available as an option. Lowest ever production numbers were seen of 13,125.
1976
A Special Decor Group had a matt-black finish grille, tape stripe, side window frames, bright windshield molding and wheel covers. Mechanically long awaited power assisted front disc brakes were fitted, rear brakes were also upgraded, Y steering linkage introduced and a front anti sway bar. Production numbers rose slowly to just over 15,200.
1977
The last year for the early Bronco saw the introduction of a heavy duty 9" rear end housing, gas tank doors replaced exterior caps, rear marker lights were now mounted vertically and a 14.4 gallon and 8 gallon gas tank were made in plastic. This is possibly the best of the early models as it includes most of the previous year features. Some previously standard items, such as a passenger's side seat and padded instrument panel, were made optional this year. In its final year of production, 14,546 Broncos rolled off the assembly line before the large Bronco took over in 1978.
If you're looking to buy a Ford Bronco please visit :http://www.americanautobid.com/Ford/Bronco
Thursday 30 October 2008
Guide to Buying a Porsche 944
You will have to search hard to find the words cheap and Porsche in the same paragraph or sentence! But when buying a Porsche 944 this can be the case with prices for a well travelled model starting at $3000 and rising to $16,000 for a low mileage late model, you could be driving a well arranged and powerful Porsche 944 for the price of a breakers yard ready 911!
As with the purchase of any older or classic vehicle the usual advice applies to buy the best you can afford with your budget and remember to include ongoing running costs for maintaining an ageing, if modern classic. Be prepared to spend up to $3000 annually on repairs - remember when buying a Porsche 944 these cars were in excess of $70,000 when new and parts can be pricey!
The first model released was the 944 Lux and you should be able to find them with several of the optional extras installed by the original owner due to the savings made in not buying a 911! These included leather trim and air conditioning, as well as alloy wheels, electric windows and mirrors, low profile tyres and headlamp washers that came as standard on the Lux. The engine area had to do overtime on the Lux as it only came with a 164BHP unit and the Porsche 944 is a heavy car.
If you have a need for speed then the Porsche 944 Turbo should fit the bill nicely! Initial models came supplied with 225BHP before evolving to 250BHP as standard making this the ideal car for heading down the highway at warp speed in the 1980's, and still looking the part today. The Porsche 944S and S2 had slightly more grunt and the later model Lux gained a little in the later models with the addition of four valves per cylinder.
When buying a Porsche 944 please check the engine and suspension for a hard driven car. Also look out for crash damage, full service history and worn interiors.
In summary Buying a Porsche 944 was and is an inexpensive entry into Porsche ownership. The purist Porsche owners and fans will always claim it is not a proper Porsche due to its front mounted, water cooled engine but it is rear wheel drive and the transmission is mounted behind and compared to the VW powered 924 it has a Porsche engine. It is also worth bearing in mind that if track days are your passion then most of the 968CS suspension can be grafted onto the 944 making a great car for handling the track!
If you're looking to buy a Porsche 944 then please visit :http://www.americanautobid.com/Porsche/944
As with the purchase of any older or classic vehicle the usual advice applies to buy the best you can afford with your budget and remember to include ongoing running costs for maintaining an ageing, if modern classic. Be prepared to spend up to $3000 annually on repairs - remember when buying a Porsche 944 these cars were in excess of $70,000 when new and parts can be pricey!
The first model released was the 944 Lux and you should be able to find them with several of the optional extras installed by the original owner due to the savings made in not buying a 911! These included leather trim and air conditioning, as well as alloy wheels, electric windows and mirrors, low profile tyres and headlamp washers that came as standard on the Lux. The engine area had to do overtime on the Lux as it only came with a 164BHP unit and the Porsche 944 is a heavy car.
If you have a need for speed then the Porsche 944 Turbo should fit the bill nicely! Initial models came supplied with 225BHP before evolving to 250BHP as standard making this the ideal car for heading down the highway at warp speed in the 1980's, and still looking the part today. The Porsche 944S and S2 had slightly more grunt and the later model Lux gained a little in the later models with the addition of four valves per cylinder.
When buying a Porsche 944 please check the engine and suspension for a hard driven car. Also look out for crash damage, full service history and worn interiors.
In summary Buying a Porsche 944 was and is an inexpensive entry into Porsche ownership. The purist Porsche owners and fans will always claim it is not a proper Porsche due to its front mounted, water cooled engine but it is rear wheel drive and the transmission is mounted behind and compared to the VW powered 924 it has a Porsche engine. It is also worth bearing in mind that if track days are your passion then most of the 968CS suspension can be grafted onto the 944 making a great car for handling the track!
If you're looking to buy a Porsche 944 then please visit :http://www.americanautobid.com/Porsche/944
Tuesday 21 October 2008
Buying an MG Midget - A Guide
The MG Midget developed from the Austin Healey Sprite MK I launched in May 1958, with the MG Midget MK1 launched in June 1961. The only difference between the MG Midget and its stable mate the MK2 Sprite are its MG badges, additional chrome trim strips, slatted chrome grill and slightly better interior.
What Should I Be Looking For?
Your first consideration when you are buying an MG Midget is the state of the body-work. The size of the MG Midget makes any restoration a hard task due to the tight dimensions. The easily available repair panels at reasonable prices make restorations for the professional and amateur alike a boon, however with this in mind check any potential purchase carefully.
Make sure you check all areas of the car, ensure all panels line up, that gaps between panels are even, no dents or ripples or any creases in the body-work. Look out for any panels or areas of the body-work that have different shades of paint they maybe covering repairs made with filler. A soft top in less than average condition should be noted and the condition of the floor checked for corrosion.
Front Apron & Front Wings
The front valance is often the first casualty in even a minor accident along with stone damage and it is important to check the seam where the front wing joins the apron. Check behind the bumper mounting for signs of accident damage and also check the condition of the bumpers, especially rubber bumpers as they are costly to replace.
The front wings have a tendency to rust along the lower seam where the wing meets the top of the sill panel. The area around the headlamp attracts corrosion and there is also a drain hole at the bottom of the lip on the front wings and if blocked dirt and sludge builds and rots the panel.
Doors and A Post
Make sure that the doors have even gaps all round and are fitted correctly. A tight fitting door that sticks at the top could be the sign of a folding body tub or a tub that has been repaired without support. Check that the door seals are in good order and ensure the window winders are working, it's especially important to check the drain holes in the door bottoms are clear and look for rust along the door bottoms. Check the A post area very carefully for any rust here, any problem here is difficult to repair.
Sills
The sills are the most common area for rust and the only repair is replacement of the panel. To examine a sill lay down along the side of the car and shine a torch along the underside checking for corrosion holes, drainage holes maybe present but not always. Surface rust on a sill may hide severe damage underneath.
Bonnet/Hood
Repair sections are available for the bonnet but some skill is needed to fit, any dents in the bonnet are also difficult to repair and you would probably be better off buying a complete panel.
Rear Wing
The top of the wheel arch inner and outer panels can corrode; the square wheel arch models seem particularly prone to this. The lower rear wing immediately behind the door where it joins the sill is another area liable to rust. Check these areas and rear quarter wing for corrosion or body filler.
Boot/Trunk
Open the boot and examine the spare wheel area for signs of dampness or rust, check the spare wheel and jack are present too. Before closing again check the lip of the boot lid for signs of corrosion.
Floor Pan
Thoroughly check this area by lifting the carpets and checking the floor underneath, the area behind the seats is prone to the buildup of road dirt and salt.
Engine Bay Inspection
Finally, when buying an MG Midget the last area for review is the engine bay. Check the engine for oil leaks in particular around the filter housing and gaskets. Any trace of anti-freeze or rust stains on the engine block could indicate water leaks. Listen to the engine running, check for blowing around manifolds and between the manifold and down pipe. Examine the clutch and brake master cylinder and surrounding paint-work for signs of fluid leaks or spillage. The battery can be found at the back of the engine bay and it should be correctly secured as any spillage from the battery can lead to corrosion of the surrounding body-work.
If you're looking to buy an MG Midget online please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/mg/midget
What Should I Be Looking For?
Your first consideration when you are buying an MG Midget is the state of the body-work. The size of the MG Midget makes any restoration a hard task due to the tight dimensions. The easily available repair panels at reasonable prices make restorations for the professional and amateur alike a boon, however with this in mind check any potential purchase carefully.
Make sure you check all areas of the car, ensure all panels line up, that gaps between panels are even, no dents or ripples or any creases in the body-work. Look out for any panels or areas of the body-work that have different shades of paint they maybe covering repairs made with filler. A soft top in less than average condition should be noted and the condition of the floor checked for corrosion.
Front Apron & Front Wings
The front valance is often the first casualty in even a minor accident along with stone damage and it is important to check the seam where the front wing joins the apron. Check behind the bumper mounting for signs of accident damage and also check the condition of the bumpers, especially rubber bumpers as they are costly to replace.
The front wings have a tendency to rust along the lower seam where the wing meets the top of the sill panel. The area around the headlamp attracts corrosion and there is also a drain hole at the bottom of the lip on the front wings and if blocked dirt and sludge builds and rots the panel.
Doors and A Post
Make sure that the doors have even gaps all round and are fitted correctly. A tight fitting door that sticks at the top could be the sign of a folding body tub or a tub that has been repaired without support. Check that the door seals are in good order and ensure the window winders are working, it's especially important to check the drain holes in the door bottoms are clear and look for rust along the door bottoms. Check the A post area very carefully for any rust here, any problem here is difficult to repair.
Sills
The sills are the most common area for rust and the only repair is replacement of the panel. To examine a sill lay down along the side of the car and shine a torch along the underside checking for corrosion holes, drainage holes maybe present but not always. Surface rust on a sill may hide severe damage underneath.
Bonnet/Hood
Repair sections are available for the bonnet but some skill is needed to fit, any dents in the bonnet are also difficult to repair and you would probably be better off buying a complete panel.
Rear Wing
The top of the wheel arch inner and outer panels can corrode; the square wheel arch models seem particularly prone to this. The lower rear wing immediately behind the door where it joins the sill is another area liable to rust. Check these areas and rear quarter wing for corrosion or body filler.
Boot/Trunk
Open the boot and examine the spare wheel area for signs of dampness or rust, check the spare wheel and jack are present too. Before closing again check the lip of the boot lid for signs of corrosion.
Floor Pan
Thoroughly check this area by lifting the carpets and checking the floor underneath, the area behind the seats is prone to the buildup of road dirt and salt.
Engine Bay Inspection
Finally, when buying an MG Midget the last area for review is the engine bay. Check the engine for oil leaks in particular around the filter housing and gaskets. Any trace of anti-freeze or rust stains on the engine block could indicate water leaks. Listen to the engine running, check for blowing around manifolds and between the manifold and down pipe. Examine the clutch and brake master cylinder and surrounding paint-work for signs of fluid leaks or spillage. The battery can be found at the back of the engine bay and it should be correctly secured as any spillage from the battery can lead to corrosion of the surrounding body-work.
If you're looking to buy an MG Midget online please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/mg/midget
Tuesday 14 October 2008
Credit Crunch Bites Harder In To New Car Sales
The credit crunch is biting even harder on new car sales as US manufacturers have commented on a dramatic drop in customer flow, it is widely expected that the sales figures for October’s seasonally adjusted annual rate (SAAR) will drop below 11 million for the first time since 1983.
There has probably never been a more apt time to buy a used auto if you’re looking to replace your current vehicle. If you are why not visit http://www.americanautobid.com/ and have a look round for some great deals.
There has probably never been a more apt time to buy a used auto if you’re looking to replace your current vehicle. If you are why not visit http://www.americanautobid.com/ and have a look round for some great deals.
Saturday 11 October 2008
Uk National Custom & Sports Car Show - Winter Warmer
Next weekend sees the National Custom & Sports Car Show Winter Warmer, 18th - 19th October. The venue is the Doncaster Racecourse, Leger Way, Doncaster the show promises to do what it says on the tin and get you warmed up & inspired for that winter project your planning. Prices are £15 for an adult, £10 Senior Citizen, £5 child aged 5 - 15 and £35 for a Family Ticket (2 adults & 2 children). With a huge main arena packed with entertainment and some of the best show cars in Europe it’s an event guaranteed to deliver and not to be missed! You can visit club displays, latest suppliers and accessories displays and an autojumble - just the place to stock up on cheap parts for your winter project! If you can't make it then why not visit http://www.onlyautos.co.uk/ for cheap car parts.
Tuesday 7 October 2008
VW Thing - Model Variants
Originally built for the German Federal Army (Bundeswehr) as a stop gap the VW Thing is available in four variants as detailed below:
TYPE 181
This is the Official Volkswagen factory designation for the left hand drive VW Thing. Originally built for the German Federal Army (Bundeswehr) as a designated multi-purpose vehicle. In the German market it is known as the Kubel or Kubelwagen, the same as its predecessor from World War 2.
THING
In 1973 and 1974 28,930 units of the VW Thing were exported to the United States. These models were basically the standard Type 181 Thing. There were however differences from the Safari model. This included full emissions equipment on the engine, following the chassis number was the letter X for export and on the left centre door pillar a U.S. DOT sticker. Initially they were to carry the title of Type 181 however VW wanted the model to be known as the Safari. Unfortunately General Motors "owned" the use of "The Safari" in the US market, having used it on Pontiac Station Wagons from 1955.
With this situation Volkswagen of America therefore settled on calling the Type 181 as "The Thing". This official title was supported in VW literature and in 42 states DMV registrations. The VW Thing was sold in Canada and several other countries, they were trans-shipped from the United States after delivery.
ACAPULCO
Available in 1974, the VW Thing "Acapulco" model was a stock VW Thing with a few minor trim changes. The body work was painted blue & white with a matching interior & running boards were also fitted, they came with either a hardtop or soft top and usually a surry top.
SAFARI
Produced for the Mexican domestic market the Safari was also exported to countries to the south of Mexico. So that the Safari could run on lower grade Premex gasolines the Mexican domestic engines all had low compression pistons installed.
TYPE 182 (Trekker)
The VW Thing in right hand drive format was produced for the UK market, as demonstrators, made to specific order or for military use in countries where right hand drive was the standards and was designated the Type 182. Only small numbers of type 182s were produced and the type 182 was officially sold in Britain by VW dealers in 1974-75, under the name "Trekker". This followed a competition held by Volkswagen UK to "name the car" due to dealers objecting to the "VW Thing" name. Press reports at the time that 300 were being imported are contradicted by records of surviving chassis numbers showing less than 100. This was probably due to overpricing and therefore did not sell very well. Made in Mexico (not Germany), generally to 1974 THING specification, but with European rear-lights and front flashers.
If you are looking to buy a VW Thing then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Thing
TYPE 181
This is the Official Volkswagen factory designation for the left hand drive VW Thing. Originally built for the German Federal Army (Bundeswehr) as a designated multi-purpose vehicle. In the German market it is known as the Kubel or Kubelwagen, the same as its predecessor from World War 2.
THING
In 1973 and 1974 28,930 units of the VW Thing were exported to the United States. These models were basically the standard Type 181 Thing. There were however differences from the Safari model. This included full emissions equipment on the engine, following the chassis number was the letter X for export and on the left centre door pillar a U.S. DOT sticker. Initially they were to carry the title of Type 181 however VW wanted the model to be known as the Safari. Unfortunately General Motors "owned" the use of "The Safari" in the US market, having used it on Pontiac Station Wagons from 1955.
With this situation Volkswagen of America therefore settled on calling the Type 181 as "The Thing". This official title was supported in VW literature and in 42 states DMV registrations. The VW Thing was sold in Canada and several other countries, they were trans-shipped from the United States after delivery.
ACAPULCO
Available in 1974, the VW Thing "Acapulco" model was a stock VW Thing with a few minor trim changes. The body work was painted blue & white with a matching interior & running boards were also fitted, they came with either a hardtop or soft top and usually a surry top.
SAFARI
Produced for the Mexican domestic market the Safari was also exported to countries to the south of Mexico. So that the Safari could run on lower grade Premex gasolines the Mexican domestic engines all had low compression pistons installed.
TYPE 182 (Trekker)
The VW Thing in right hand drive format was produced for the UK market, as demonstrators, made to specific order or for military use in countries where right hand drive was the standards and was designated the Type 182. Only small numbers of type 182s were produced and the type 182 was officially sold in Britain by VW dealers in 1974-75, under the name "Trekker". This followed a competition held by Volkswagen UK to "name the car" due to dealers objecting to the "VW Thing" name. Press reports at the time that 300 were being imported are contradicted by records of surviving chassis numbers showing less than 100. This was probably due to overpricing and therefore did not sell very well. Made in Mexico (not Germany), generally to 1974 THING specification, but with European rear-lights and front flashers.
If you are looking to buy a VW Thing then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/Volkswagen/Thing
Thursday 2 October 2008
History of the Datsun 240Z
The history of the Datsun 240z begins in 1969 when launched as a 1970model to the motoring world. The Datsun 240z was not a new concept as many manufacturers had achieved sports cars with excellent performance, strong engineering, and attractive styling with mediocre interiors at a low cost. The success of the 240z was down to the fact that the car perfected the idea of a low cost, reliable sports car. The man responsible for the design and creation of the Datsun 240z was Yutaka Katayama and in recognition of his involvement of this legendary vehicle he was inducted into the Automobile Hall of Fame in 1998.
The history of the Datsun 240z engine is quite interesting as it is a deviant of the Datsun 1600 engine which in itself was a replica of the 1960's Mercedes Benz six cylinder with two less cylinders. Add two extra cylinders back to the Datsun 1600 engine and you have the 240z engine with 151 brake horsepower. With 146 pound-feet of torque you have a vehicle that could reach 0-sixty in eight seconds add to this the rack and pinion steering and independent suspension and you have a car with quick response, great performance and handling. Bringing all this to a halt in just seconds you had front disc brakes. With its launch price tag of $3500 it was much less than its rivals on the market at that time.
There is a strong history of the Datsun 240z with the Sports Car Club of America as it dominated the c-class production category for 10 years from 1970-1979. John Morton driving for Brock Enterprises in 1970 and 1971 claimed the first victory in the SCCA c-class production racing using a 240z. In 1972, 1973 and again in 1975 Bob Sharp was victorious in a 240z with Walt Mass continuing the winning run in 1974.
1974 saw an increase in the engine size to 2.6 litres and the vehicle renamed as the 260z effectively bringing to the end the 240z series having sold just under 117,000 models during its lifetime. The 260z engine had a lower brake horsepower of 139 as a result of the increasing emissions regulations in the United States as each year passed.
The Datsun 260z proved to be a far more practical car than its predecessor and during its first and only year of production it sold 63,963 units giving it the Z-series all time sales record.
If you're looking to buy a datsun 240z then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/datsun/z-series
The history of the Datsun 240z engine is quite interesting as it is a deviant of the Datsun 1600 engine which in itself was a replica of the 1960's Mercedes Benz six cylinder with two less cylinders. Add two extra cylinders back to the Datsun 1600 engine and you have the 240z engine with 151 brake horsepower. With 146 pound-feet of torque you have a vehicle that could reach 0-sixty in eight seconds add to this the rack and pinion steering and independent suspension and you have a car with quick response, great performance and handling. Bringing all this to a halt in just seconds you had front disc brakes. With its launch price tag of $3500 it was much less than its rivals on the market at that time.
There is a strong history of the Datsun 240z with the Sports Car Club of America as it dominated the c-class production category for 10 years from 1970-1979. John Morton driving for Brock Enterprises in 1970 and 1971 claimed the first victory in the SCCA c-class production racing using a 240z. In 1972, 1973 and again in 1975 Bob Sharp was victorious in a 240z with Walt Mass continuing the winning run in 1974.
1974 saw an increase in the engine size to 2.6 litres and the vehicle renamed as the 260z effectively bringing to the end the 240z series having sold just under 117,000 models during its lifetime. The 260z engine had a lower brake horsepower of 139 as a result of the increasing emissions regulations in the United States as each year passed.
The Datsun 260z proved to be a far more practical car than its predecessor and during its first and only year of production it sold 63,963 units giving it the Z-series all time sales record.
If you're looking to buy a datsun 240z then please visit http://www.americanautobid.com/datsun/z-series
Tuesday 30 September 2008
Star's Cars For Sale - Bonhams & Butterfields
Star’s Cars For Sale - Bonhams & Butterfields, Oct 25, Los Angeles, USA
Steve Mcqueen is probably the one of the biggest names in the Classic Car scene, it is therefore no surprise that Bonhams & Butterfields are pushing his name in the run up to their Petersen Automotive Museum auction. None of his cars are in the auction but there will be a number of personal effects once belonging to his wife, Neile Adams.
The star car lots in the sixth running of this event belong to none other than Bruce Willis – including some great examples of American muscle. His 1968 Shelby GT-500 convertible, 1968 Pontiac Firebird 400 convertible, and 1957 Chevrolet Corvette convertible will be on offer and head automotive artifacts owned by stars such as Clark Gable and Charles Bronson. Previous sales have been extremely popular and have attracted an international crowd, and prices promise to be high.
Steve Mcqueen is probably the one of the biggest names in the Classic Car scene, it is therefore no surprise that Bonhams & Butterfields are pushing his name in the run up to their Petersen Automotive Museum auction. None of his cars are in the auction but there will be a number of personal effects once belonging to his wife, Neile Adams.
The star car lots in the sixth running of this event belong to none other than Bruce Willis – including some great examples of American muscle. His 1968 Shelby GT-500 convertible, 1968 Pontiac Firebird 400 convertible, and 1957 Chevrolet Corvette convertible will be on offer and head automotive artifacts owned by stars such as Clark Gable and Charles Bronson. Previous sales have been extremely popular and have attracted an international crowd, and prices promise to be high.
Indy Car News
The IndyCar Series has claimed another NASCAR driver for 2009 when sometime Nationwide Series runner Stanton Barrett makes the jump to open-wheel racing with Team 3G.
Stock car journeyman Barrett will link up with occasional IndyCar entrant Greg Beck and sports marketing expert Steve Sudler to drive the familiar #98 Curb/Agajanian-backed Dallara-Honda next season. Barrett will make the switch to open-wheel racing after a 15-year career spent chasing NASCAR honours without success to capitalise on the renewed vigour of the unified IndyCar Series.
Stock car journeyman Barrett will link up with occasional IndyCar entrant Greg Beck and sports marketing expert Steve Sudler to drive the familiar #98 Curb/Agajanian-backed Dallara-Honda next season. Barrett will make the switch to open-wheel racing after a 15-year career spent chasing NASCAR honours without success to capitalise on the renewed vigour of the unified IndyCar Series.
Paul Newman
This week saw the passing of Hollywood legend Paul Newman. Paul Newman was introduced to motor racing in 1968 while filming a movie at the Indianapolis Motor Speedway, and from that brief encounter blossomed a 40-year passion for the sport that included not only co-ownership of one of the most powerful teams in US open-wheel racing, but also his own successful driving career.
The Academy Award-winning actor and world-renowned activist and humanitarian, died on Friday, aged 83, at his home in Connecticut, prompting a flood of tributes from all the worlds he inhabited.
The Academy Award-winning actor and world-renowned activist and humanitarian, died on Friday, aged 83, at his home in Connecticut, prompting a flood of tributes from all the worlds he inhabited.
Wednesday 24 September 2008
Jap Show Finale - UK
Sunday 5th October sees the Jap Show Finale held at Santa Pod Raceway, Northamptonshire, England.
Few shows match up for sheer raw Jap Power and over the years records have tumbled at this highly rated show.
This year’s show will host the finals of the HKS Drag Series in the closest championship yet, with rivals John Bradshaw (Nissan Skyline) and Steve Whittaker (Toyota Supra) deadlocked on 530 points each. And with Steve Whittaker running in the 7’s, and John Bradshaw not far behind, its gonna be one hell of an end to the season.
As well as this there will be RWYB comps, massive car club displays, drifting, drag demos, stunts and track displays. The trade village will be there for anyone looking to pick up cheap car parts along with side shows and much more.
I'm hoping to be there!
Few shows match up for sheer raw Jap Power and over the years records have tumbled at this highly rated show.
This year’s show will host the finals of the HKS Drag Series in the closest championship yet, with rivals John Bradshaw (Nissan Skyline) and Steve Whittaker (Toyota Supra) deadlocked on 530 points each. And with Steve Whittaker running in the 7’s, and John Bradshaw not far behind, its gonna be one hell of an end to the season.
As well as this there will be RWYB comps, massive car club displays, drifting, drag demos, stunts and track displays. The trade village will be there for anyone looking to pick up cheap car parts along with side shows and much more.
I'm hoping to be there!
Tuesday 23 September 2008
Buying a Triumph Spitfire
I suppose the first point to take into consideration before buying a Triumph Spitfire is that you are buying a hobby and not a car! You have to realise that the technology used to design and build a Triumph Spitfire is old just like the cars themselves and they do not have the reliability of today's hi-tech cars built by robots. Triumph Spitfires do and will break down so be prepared for this eventuality.
Once you understand the above you can have peace of mind that almost everything that can go wrong with a Triumph Spitfire can be easily fixed - with the exception of some aspects of the body work! An otherwise decent car can turn into a costly mess or even a death trap. A shiny paint job can hide major rust, it is wise to take a magnet when looking to buy a Triumph Spitfire (preferably from a refrigerator door seal) and use this on key areas of the bodywork such as the nose, under the doors (sills) and behind the wheels. If you find the magnet does not stick to the bodywork there could be body filler under the paint. This does not mean the car is a total wreck, it maybe the odd repair but at least you have highlighted it and you can discuss with the seller.
If you go through with buying a Triumph Spitfire then it's a good idea to give your new hobby a complete going over. Everything on the car that can wear out needs replacing to ensure your car starts with a new lease of life. Start by replacing the fluids including oil, brake fluid, gearbox fluid and coolant. Next oil/grease hinges, u-joints and trunnions. Give it a complete tune up and replace plugs, ignition wires, distribution cap and points and follow this by checking the timing etc. Replace all hoses, belts and brake pads and you could even consider rebuilding the carb. There is obviously a cost involved if you do this yourself or if you have someone do this for you - remember though that the difference in performance of the car will be huge.
If the car has not moved for sometime then the brakes and clutch will most probably have problems. Whilst these repairs are quite simple and straight forward they must be fixed as yours and other road users safety is critical.
Once you understand the above you can have peace of mind that almost everything that can go wrong with a Triumph Spitfire can be easily fixed - with the exception of some aspects of the body work! An otherwise decent car can turn into a costly mess or even a death trap. A shiny paint job can hide major rust, it is wise to take a magnet when looking to buy a Triumph Spitfire (preferably from a refrigerator door seal) and use this on key areas of the bodywork such as the nose, under the doors (sills) and behind the wheels. If you find the magnet does not stick to the bodywork there could be body filler under the paint. This does not mean the car is a total wreck, it maybe the odd repair but at least you have highlighted it and you can discuss with the seller.
If you go through with buying a Triumph Spitfire then it's a good idea to give your new hobby a complete going over. Everything on the car that can wear out needs replacing to ensure your car starts with a new lease of life. Start by replacing the fluids including oil, brake fluid, gearbox fluid and coolant. Next oil/grease hinges, u-joints and trunnions. Give it a complete tune up and replace plugs, ignition wires, distribution cap and points and follow this by checking the timing etc. Replace all hoses, belts and brake pads and you could even consider rebuilding the carb. There is obviously a cost involved if you do this yourself or if you have someone do this for you - remember though that the difference in performance of the car will be huge.
If the car has not moved for sometime then the brakes and clutch will most probably have problems. Whilst these repairs are quite simple and straight forward they must be fixed as yours and other road users safety is critical.
Wednesday 10 September 2008
Welcome To My Auto Blog
Hello,
I'm new to the world of blogging but I hope to keep updates related to anything to do with the Auto World! I'm a complete petrol head and just love anything to do with cars, mainly Classic Cars but I keep an eye on new developments and motorsports. I love to see an old vehicle rescued from the scrapyard or the clutches of a crusher and returned to its original condition or a custom/modified version.
A couple of things have caught my attention this week, firstly the Formula One fiasco regarding the decision to impose a 25 second penalty and drop Lewis Hamilton to third place. I suppose there are opinions on both sides of the argument for this but I can't help feeling cynical that the powers that be have reeled Lewis Hamilton back in from building a lead in the Drivers Championship whilst again appearing to look favourable towards Ferrari.
Secondly the current Gloabl economic conditions are having a devastating impact on new car sales with slumps seen both in the US & UK. Is this a good time to be replacing you're car with a quality used car? If you are looking for a cheap used car then a good website to visit with great bargains is http://www.americanautobid.com/.
Thats it for now, I hope to keep this blog up to date over the coming weeks, months years!
Andy
I'm new to the world of blogging but I hope to keep updates related to anything to do with the Auto World! I'm a complete petrol head and just love anything to do with cars, mainly Classic Cars but I keep an eye on new developments and motorsports. I love to see an old vehicle rescued from the scrapyard or the clutches of a crusher and returned to its original condition or a custom/modified version.
A couple of things have caught my attention this week, firstly the Formula One fiasco regarding the decision to impose a 25 second penalty and drop Lewis Hamilton to third place. I suppose there are opinions on both sides of the argument for this but I can't help feeling cynical that the powers that be have reeled Lewis Hamilton back in from building a lead in the Drivers Championship whilst again appearing to look favourable towards Ferrari.
Secondly the current Gloabl economic conditions are having a devastating impact on new car sales with slumps seen both in the US & UK. Is this a good time to be replacing you're car with a quality used car? If you are looking for a cheap used car then a good website to visit with great bargains is http://www.americanautobid.com/.
Thats it for now, I hope to keep this blog up to date over the coming weeks, months years!
Andy
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